Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Seth Tart, Dennis Buice, Joy Cox
Page Views: 116 total · 2/month
Shared By: S Tart on Jul 12, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This route is not for the faint hearted at this grade.

P1: From the top of the gully climb the left leaning crack which is formed by the right side of the Joy Loader roof system. Get your first gear behind the block above the roof or a little higher way out left in a slot on a 4' runner. A fall would hurt but you wont deck. This part is not to hard but is heady as you fel pretty committed while looking for the shallow 1/2 inch cam up above your head. Get it and go as if falling was not an option. Get your first "finally feel safe gear" just above the cam at a stance and veer right aiming for an obviously large crack/flare hole. Continue to trend up and right to plug in a few pieces at the base of the primary weakness splitting the steep 30' headwall. Climb the headwall through the business to the huge quartzite jug at the top. Don't go left but breakout right into a trendy 3-4 move exit sequence to a big side pull and easier ground. This puts you in line to finish underneath the distinct and intimidating 2nd pitch prow.

Set up natural anchors on ledge just left of the 2'x 3' flat spot of the ledge. Climb 2nd pitch or traverse all the way left to slings on a lower tree.

P2: This pitch climbs the crack system dead center of the wall and starts off the right side of the 2' x 3' flat spot on the ledge. The belayer should be at the anchors on the left of the flat spot so the 2nd pitch climber does not fall on their head.

Rack up all your smal units and a 2-2.5 for just over the roof and have at it. The rock quality and exposure are amazing. Climb straight up the gently overhung headwall to just under the roof at the top. Veer up and right to exit the roof through a large V-slot in the center.

Anchor from trees to belay and soak in the Visual Splendor.

Location

15' right of Joy Loader. As you approach the VD buttress take a small trail right along the cliff line through some rhodos to its end (about 30'). Look for a left leaning crack at the corner of the low roof.

Protection

Standard Moores Wall rack, with extra 1/2 inch tcus. Larger nuts are useful for building the anchor.

Photos

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