Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in North End
|Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R|
|Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13|
|Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X|
|indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Seth Tart, Dennis Buice, Joy Cox|
|Page Views:||92 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||S Tart on Jul 12, 2013|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionThis route is not for the faint hearted at this grade.
P1: From the top of the gully climb the left leaning crack which is formed by the right side of the Joy Loader roof system. Get your first gear behind the block above the roof or a little higher way out left in a slot on a 4' runner. A fall would hurt but you wont deck. This part is not to hard but is heady as you fel pretty committed while looking for the shallow 1/2 inch cam up above your head. Get it and go as if falling was not an option. Get your first "finally feel safe gear" just above the cam at a stance and veer right aiming for an obviously large crack/flare hole. Continue to trend up and right to plug in a few pieces at the base of the primary weakness splitting the steep 30' headwall. Climb the headwall through the business to the huge quartzite jug at the top. Don't go left but breakout right into a trendy 3-4 move exit sequence to a big side pull and easier ground. This puts you in line to finish underneath the distinct and intimidating 2nd pitch prow.
Set up natural anchors on ledge just left of the 2'x 3' flat spot of the ledge. Climb 2nd pitch or traverse all the way left to slings on a lower tree.
P2: This pitch climbs the crack system dead center of the wall and starts off the right side of the 2' x 3' flat spot on the ledge. The belayer should be at the anchors on the left of the flat spot so the 2nd pitch climber does not fall on their head.
Rack up all your smal units and a 2-2.5 for just over the roof and have at it. The rock quality and exposure are amazing. Climb straight up the gently overhung headwall to just under the roof at the top. Veer up and right to exit the roof through a large V-slot in the center.
Anchor from trees to belay and soak in the Visual Splendor.