Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 385 total · 6/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on May 10, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is primarily a TR directly under the rap station that serves Juggernaut and Juggerhead. There isn't a completely clear line but it's possible to make a distinct path and follow various cracks by beginning about 5-10 feet left of the start of Juggerhead.

Begin by immediately overcoming a small roof and work up through the moderate face (watch out for suspect rock here) until you reach the blank headwall. A short vertical slot/handhold looms above marking the vicinity of the hard climbing. Locate the key undercling, then boulder your way to glory, exiting the roof out right.

Given that Juggerhead was lacking a name, this likely doesn't have one either but please update if you know.

Location

Directly under the rappel line for Juggernaut/Juggerhead.

Located in the same alcove above the main North End Trail as Juggernaut. About 10' right of the start of Juggernaut.

Protection

Top rope is probably the only reasonable way to do this, unless you are really bold.

The route is protectable up until the start of the crux where the only obvious pro seems to be a tiny brass nut above the sidepull (likely blocking it). Given the hard climbing that single puny nut would have to protect and the consequence of it failing would be an ugly bounce off the slab it's serious. Maybe someone has already lead it anyway? Don't know.

A single bolt on the headwall might transform this from a R/X into a nice lead...

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