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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 305 total, 7/month
Shared By: Matt Westlake on May 10, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This is primarily a TR directly under the rap station that serves Juggernaut and Juggerhead. There isn't a completely clear line but it's possible to make a distinct path and follow various cracks by beginning about 5-10 feet left of the start of Juggerhead.

Begin by immediately overcoming a small roof and work up through the moderate face (watch out for suspect rock here) until you reach the blank headwall. A short vertical slot/handhold looms above marking the vicinity of the hard climbing. Locate the key undercling, then boulder your way to glory, exiting the roof out right.

Given that Juggerhead was lacking a name, this likely doesn't have one either but please update if you know.

Location

Directly under the rappel line for Juggernaut/Juggerhead.

Located in the same alcove above the main North End Trail as Juggernaut. About 10' right of the start of Juggernaut.

Protection

Top rope is probably the only reasonable way to do this, unless you are really bold.

The route is protectable up until the start of the crux where the only obvious pro seems to be a tiny brass nut above the sidepull (likely blocking it). Given the hard climbing that single puny nut would have to protect and the consequence of it failing would be an ugly bounce off the slab it's serious. Maybe someone has already lead it anyway? Don't know.

A single bolt on the headwall might transform this from a R/X into a nice lead...

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