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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Seth Tart, Dennis Buice, Joy Cox
Page Views: 174 total, 3/month
Shared By: S Tart on Jul 11, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

The first few feet of this route look damp and low quality but don't let that deture you from sampling the unusually good roof and the spectacular 100' of climbing above.

Start standing on a handplaced rock in front of the short face leading to the roofs weakness. Map out two or three good holds and a foot chip on the face to help you access the completely sinker right hand seam under the roof. Pull the roof via unforeseen huge holds then grunt and pucker over the lip to the complete stance above (Although the roof pull is on seemingly bomber holds, the moves are very powerful and unprotected; being hardest at the highest point). Up high on the stance get your first piece of gear in a slot out right. Then follow sculpted holds thru a bulge just right of an illuring crack to a good horizontal and your next stance. Move just right into the start of a large crack system and take it to the top. From its terminal point, follow the crack feature 3' right, 6' up, and back left into the main seam. Execute the last deceptively steep push through rock'n side pulls onto easier ground and the anchors.

Note: Be strong at this grade because you dont want to get stuck or fall pulling over the highest part of the roof and any following should be snug (with spotter if possible) through the roof because of rope stretch.

Location

20' right of Nevermore-11b. Just before reaching the base of the VD buttress, go right thru the rhodos and halfway up a path (about 20') to a small clearing in front of the low roof system.

Protection

Plenty of very small to medium cams (maybe one larger one) and stoppers. Fixed nut anchors.

Photos

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