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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Seth Tart / Dennis Buice
Page Views: 234 total, 6/month
Shared By: S Tart on Dec 6, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This is a straight up X route. There's only a few feet of climbing during the first 50' where falling might be ok. It's a shame this line is not protectable because it would be very popular otherwise.
Of course on traditional routes, the gear has to be placed on lead. Well the first piece of protection on X-Games, if so chosen, is a tree limb just close enough to the cliff to be able to throw a 48" runner at it. It's not an easy piece to get but hanging off an overhung face with one arm and trying to lasso a tree limb before pumping out over a boulder infested grounder does promote tremendous staying power.

Start walking up the rock ramp as if to climb Nut Sweat. Before you get to the Nut Sweat crack system move left, underneath and through the left side of multiple polished bulges. Gain a flat single hand hold just above the tree limb's level and start the clock; you've only got about 3 trys. Thin moves lead to the next good stance and your first piece of 'will probably hold' gear. Pull through the next overhung face to some small pieces up high and a good place to turn the corner onto Nut Sweat. Finish out on the second half of Nut Sweat.

Location

Left of Nut Sweat.

Protection

48' runner and a couple small pieces for the first 50' and a standard rack for Nut Sweat.

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