Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 359 total · 4/month
Shared By: Edward Medina on May 27, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

I've asked many of the long-time local climbers about a history for this climb without much luck. If it was named by the first ascencionist noone I talked to seems to know what it is. Since it is between Juggernaut and Indian Head I thought Juggerhead would be appropriate.
Start in a fist crack with the hardest moves right off the ground. Where the crack peters out trend right towards the arete where the rock is most featured. Gear placements in the horizontals are right where you want them, don't pass any up. Rappell from slings at a tree.
Please pass along any FA info if you have it.

Location

Located in the same alcove above the main North End Trail as Juggernaut. About 15' right of the start of Juggernaut.

Protection

#4 Camalot can be placed with a Piedmont stick clip (your 6' climbing partner) to protect the opening moves.From there it is mostly small to midsized cams. Tricams are useful.

Photos

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Phil York
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Phil York   Winston-Salem, NC
 
Fun route! I did this little gem for the first time today. There is a lot more climbing on this than it looks from the ground. Great moves up top, solid gear right where you need it. Sep 21, 2012
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
+1 on fun route. Sorta made me think of a harder version of "my wife's pajamas" route. Plus there is a fun and HARD (for 2-3 moves) direct variation up the rap line which makes for a good TR, or maybe a scary lead.

Updated: Decided that the direct variation is fun enough to warrant a separate entry (see The Argonaut). Given that Juggerhead was lacking a name, this likely doesn't have one either but please update if you know. Nov 12, 2012
Jordan Angus Gay
North Carolina
 
Jordan Angus Gay   North Carolina
 
As of 10/4/17 the anchor is some semi-bleached 10mm rope tripled around a good tree with some opposite and opposed wiregates. The tat is fine for now but will need replacing sooner than later. I'll try to replace it if I'm on the route again soon. Oct 4, 2017
Dylan B.
  5.7
Dylan B.  
  5.7
Way easier than Airshow, and also significantly easier than Raise Hell. Protection was a bit finicky in places, but the climbing was a breeze. Oct 21, 2017