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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 282 total, 4/month
Shared By: Edward Medina on May 27, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

I've asked many of the long-time local climbers about a history for this climb without much luck. If it was named by the first ascencionist noone I talked to seems to know what it is. Since it is between Juggernaut and Indian Head I thought Juggerhead would be appropriate.
Start in a fist crack with the hardest moves right off the ground. Where the crack peters out trend right towards the arete where the rock is most featured. Gear placements in the horizontals are right where you want them, don't pass any up. Rappell from slings at a tree.
Please pass along any FA info if you have it.

Location

Located in the same alcove above the main North End Trail as Juggernaut. About 15' right of the start of Juggernaut.

Protection

#4 Camalot can be placed with a Piedmont stick clip (your 6' climbing partner) to protect the opening moves.From there it is mostly small to midsized cams. Tricams are useful.

Photos

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Dylan B.
  5.7
Dylan B.  
  5.7
Way easier than Airshow, and also significantly easier than Raise Hell. Protection was a bit finicky in places, but the climbing was a breeze. Oct 21, 2017
This is a pretty decent route that climbs better than it looks from the ground. I agree with the description above, the #4 protects the start well. I'm tall and placed it from the ground, but it's reasonable to place it after doing one move to a jug. The first half of the route is easy after the boulder start, but don't pass up on any gear. The upper climbing is steeper than I expected, but the holds are really good and the moves are fun!

As of 10/4/17 the anchor is some semi-bleached 10mm rope tripled around a good tree with some opposite and opposed wiregates. I added a backup while my second rapped and removed it before I descended. The tat is fine for now but will need replacing sooner than later. I'll try to replace it if I'm on the route again soon. Oct 4, 2017
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
+1 on fun route. Sorta made me think of a harder version of "my wife's pajamas" route. Plus there is a fun and HARD (for 2-3 moves) direct variation up the rap line which makes for a good TR, or maybe a scary lead.

Updated: Decided that the direct variation is fun enough to warrant a separate entry (see The Argonaut). Given that Juggerhead was lacking a name, this likely doesn't have one either but please update if you know. Nov 12, 2012
Phil York
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Phil York   Winston-Salem, NC
 
Fun route! I did this little gem for the first time today. There is a lot more climbing on this than it looks from the ground. Great moves up top, solid gear right where you need it. Sep 21, 2012