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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Reed and Jarrard, 1988
Page Views: 1,243 total, 12/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on Jun 19, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the few "sport" climbs at Moore's, and a it's a good one at that. Good rock, great protection, and a short (read: 2 moves), powerful crux at the second bolt to pumpy but easier climbing above make it worth the effort if you're over scaring yourself shitless on the other North End routes.

Location

The farthest left you can go at the North End- just to the left of Enduro Man and Filet.

Protection

Quickdraws.

P.S. The last time I was there in January of 2009 I noticed that someone has placed a new, two-bolt anchor right above the fourth bolt- This is not the end of the route! The route continues on bomber fixed gear up through the bulge for another 20 feet to another anchor- whoever put the new anchor in has tarnished the route and obviously did not take the time to look up and see the little wires hanging out of the crack above- IMHO this anchor should be chopped.

Photos

Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12-
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12-
Such a pity. This could have been a really classic 1-bolt route and it wouldn't even be R-rated. As it is now, it's just a little route with no jizm left. The anchor situation will be fixed this year. In the meantime, I've left a delta quicklink on the retro bolt that is 18 inches below the retro anchor. Please use it as a backup on the final lower off. May 16, 2015
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Did this route again today after having not been on it in probably 10 years or more. I'm not 100% sure about the original anchor but there used to be 2 cold shuts about 30' higher than the current one (next to what I understood to be the original anchor - stopper/bashie and old pin). Supposedly the 4th bolt was also added after the FA, as there used to be a fixed wire in that horizontal just above. Resources from the TK guide and friends; have not personally asked either of the FA parties.

Either way, and for some reason, the new anchor bolts are insanely rusty - seriously. I don't know why, but they look like they've been sitting in a water streak for 20+ years... Otherwise, they look like they were placed well, just badly corroded.

It's certainly not my call, but It seems like the best place for an anchor would have been between the old one and the new one, in the bulge about 15' higher. Just my 2 cents worth. Jul 8, 2013
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
the end of the route is NOT up high-the original finish was to a gear anchor slightly below where the current low bolted anchor is. Aug 30, 2010
Ben Sachs  
 
The route is short as is, let's not make it worse. Jun 20, 2009