Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Monty Reagan
Page Views: 3,145 total · 25/month
Shared By: Ben Sachs on Jan 12, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Pull the opening boulder problem of Middle Road and traverse right a few feet past good gear. Pull the steep roof past 2 bolts and a pin to a jug and gear. Finish on jugs to the anchor. Pumpy for its height. Perfect rock and fun movement.

Location

North End. The guide mentions that the original start traversed in from Vascular Disaster, which is true. There used to be a fixed stopper to protect this but it is gone now. It also mentions some "unprotected" starts. Everyone I know starts on Middle Road. This way is very well protected, fun, and consistent with the difficulty of the climb. I'd recommend this option.

Protection

3 bolts and an old pin (that most people skip). Good gear after the opening boulder problem and between the last bolt and anchor. The anchor is a fixed hex that wiggles and I think a fixed stopper. It seems fine but I'd back it up with a small cam if you plan on TR.

Photos

I did a direct direct start directly below the crux, pulling a low roof and following a seam. Ends up on the jug right of the Middle Road start/traverse-in. This version was protected by traversing in from VD and clipping the first good gear on BTYP. I think I may have lead that start out of boredom at some point, as well, for an R/X variant...the most direct line. Mar 18, 2009