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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tim Fisher and Terry Jennings, 1981
Page Views: 1,084 total, 19/month
Shared By: sanz on May 14, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

I am posting this route in hopes that some of the Moore's vets can add more info. I am pretty sure that we (and others, from what I have heard) started this thing wrong and did a sort of indirect version.

The guide references starting in "a V slot with an overhang at the bottom." We started in what was more like a chimney, toward the left side of the little briar patch under the Indian Head. I am now pretty sure this is "Nevermore." It is definitely longer than 40 feet and harder than 5.7, as P1 is described in the guide. This made our second pitch a short, easy diagonal traverse up and right to the dark corner where the money pitch starts.

The money pitch is impossible to miss and amazing! Our "Indian Head Indirect" version of P1 and P2 was also actually pretty cool, but I am quite sure it is not the right start. I am hoping this gets some folks talking about the proper start so that others who wanna get on this thing feel more prepared and do it right!

Location

Good question!

The Indian Head feature is hard to miss as you walk from the Ampitheater to the North End. There is a little briar-filled alcove under the feature. The proper start of the route is somewhere in here. The wide chimney on the left side of the briar patch is "Nevermore" and can also be used to start the route.

If you have double ropes, the guide says you can rap from a tree island climber's right of the Indian Head. For a single rope rap, scramble along the rest of the ridge that forms the Indian Head and descend the gully to the left.

Protection

Standard Moore's rack. No fixed anchors.

Photos

asrollin
Salisbury, NC
  5.10+
asrollin   Salisbury, NC
  5.10+
Did the "Indirect" version today, and man that final pitch is amazing! First 5.10 onsite and damn if it wasnt a good one. Had sort of an epic trying to get my gear down though, due to my partner being unable to follow the last pitch. Word for the wise - have an ascender if climbing with a partner who isnt as strong of a climber! Aug 4, 2013