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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Seth Tart
Page Views: 496 total · 13/month
Shared By: S Tart on Nov 19, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This is the King Line of Moores Wall and Moores has so many good ones. It is the most exposed and intimidating piece of real estate in central NC, possibly the state and on the short list of the southeast. If this route does not challenge your sense of well being then you are indeed invincible.
Not many cliff lines harbor such an anomaly. The radical climbing and outrageous positioning would make this a poster child route for any area. Climbing 5.13 and placing gear under a dead horizontal roof with the crux 25' out the lip and 200' of air beneath you is mind bending. Mother Nature just doesn't produce it often.

Porter Jarrard initially looked at this line in the 80's, ultimately concluding,"the hardest part about this line is going to be finding somebody to climb it."
I started working on it in the mid 90's but never got back for an attempt at the monster line, which first ascends the knee knocking Windigo before entering deep enemy territory.
Recently, I revisited the route and completed Survival Of The Fittest.

The hardest thing about this route is not the power or the individual moves but rather the stamina to hold on and pull the lip after placing gear on lead for 100' of steep climbing. If you were willing to skip the roof gear and run it out, the difficulty could be scaled back a notch.

There are a couple options for cleaning this route. The easiest is belaying from the top but it's scary with considerable rope drag and tough anchor points for the necessary safety; not advised. The other option is to build a small anchor above the lip to lower from and have your second clean Windigo. Then hike around and clean from above. This is also somewhat challenging. Welcome to 'old school' 101.... Or is that 102 or 103 maybe?? Either way, this line is an undertaking and puts up resistance from start to finish.


Climb Windigo to the good stance section on the left side of the tower, just below roof level. Start working out right to the base of the roof placing multiple smaller cams along the way. Dive into the business and power the first crux half way out the roof. Pass two old bolts to the base of a splitter crack in the roof's underbelly. Climb the crack, placing a 1.5 - 2.5" cam and then a medium size nut before pulling the lip to salvation.

Location

Climbs out the left side of the overhang, then directly through the central underbelly of the enormous Indian Head roof.

Protection

Cams from micros - 2.5 inches. Bring some additional smaller cams and nuts. Also bring plenty of 24's and a couple 48" runners.

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