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Routes in North End

Argonaut, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Tim Fisher, Bill Holtsford
Page Views: 1,062 total · 9/month
Shared By: sean barb on Feb 4, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Climb up the initial corner system of Shadowdance. At the sloping ledge system, traverse left and up towards an arete. Getting good pro before the exposed arete is awkward and strenuous, but mandatory. No pro at the crux, but you're better off blasting through and getting solid pro up higher. Enjoy the position.

Location [Suggest Change]

Same start as Shadowdance. A short rap or down climb will get you down to the Nutsweat anchor which can be rapped just barely on a single 60-meter rope.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Small brass and steel nuts are needed to protect the falls at the crux. Nuts and small to mid-sized cams will protect the rest of the route. Double ropes are helpful.

Photos

Tim Fisher
  5.11 R
Tim Fisher  
  5.11 R
Damn Sean you really are selling it ;-)

Considering it is a bit serious, this route has been repeated many times. I think it is that good. It is easy to back off if you don't feel up to the bidness. Jun 4, 2009
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
This route now has its own anchor. Clean gear with swaged stainless cable, it is about 100 ft. off the ground. Sep 17, 2012

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