Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Tim Fisher, Bill Holtsford
Page Views: 1,145 total · 10/month
Shared By: sean barb on Feb 4, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the initial corner system of Shadowdance. At the sloping ledge system, traverse left and up towards an arete. Getting good pro before the exposed arete is awkward and strenuous, but mandatory. No pro at the crux, but you're better off blasting through and getting solid pro up higher. Enjoy the position.

Location

Same start as Shadowdance. A short rap or down climb will get you down to the Nutsweat anchor which can be rapped just barely on a single 60-meter rope.

Protection

Small brass and steel nuts are needed to protect the falls at the crux. Nuts and small to mid-sized cams will protect the rest of the route. Double ropes are helpful.

Photos

Tim Fisher
  5.11 R
Tim Fisher  
  5.11 R
Damn Sean you really are selling it ;-)

Considering it is a bit serious, this route has been repeated many times. I think it is that good. It is easy to back off if you don't feel up to the bidness. Jun 4, 2009
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
This route now has its own anchor. Clean gear with swaged stainless cable, it is about 100 ft. off the ground. Sep 17, 2012
Austin Goff
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11 R
Austin Goff   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11 R
If it wasnt for the traverse in from shadowdance this would be a contender for best 5.11 at Moores. Stiff competition. Offers an amazing variety of climbing movement and requires the full bag of climbing/gear techniques. A must do at the grade. Aug 9, 2018