Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Carlton Ramm
Page Views: 776 total · 13/month
Shared By: Neil Rankin on May 8, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Death Wish probably has the best crack climbing at Moore's Wall, and it has some of the best exposure as well. It takes the route in between Nutsweat and Bat Attack. Start the same as Nutsweat, but instead of traversing left out of the dihedral, stay with it. Then head right under an overhang and up into a left-angling hand crack. Follow the hand crack through dizzying exposure and into a couple of slot chimneys before finally traversing up and left on easy ground aiming for a bushy collection of trees. Getting established in the upper slot is the crux.

The first ascent of Death Wash was climbed ground-up in 1979 and was likely protected with only stoppers and hexes. A really proud effort.

Note: To descend, downclimb about 15-20 feet straight down to the Nutsweat anchor and rappel. This downclimb is steep and exposed, but is easy 5th class climbing. A belay would be highly recommended.

Protection

Lots of nuts, cams to a #3.5 Friend.

Photos

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dave Hause
carrboro, nc
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
The route to get your exposure buzz. Oct 24, 2016
Karl VonZabern
Durham, NC
 
Karl VonZabern   Durham, NC
 
Protects very well, one of the best at the grade in the state. Jan 3, 2019