Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Tim Fisher, Jeff Overby - 1985
Page Views: 3,040 total · 21/month
Shared By: bldrite on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

This is a pretty classic Moore's Wall route. The crux may be just getting past the 12- boulder problem start, don't blow it here. So, fire off the start, get up about 15 feet, place first good pro, bomber gear, long sling. More mellow climbing brings you to a roof crux with tricky gear placements, good gear, just tricky to see your placements. Pull the roof and then continue to anchors on a pumpy jug haul with some good gear of #1/#2 size camalots. NC anchor of a couple of wires (cannot recall if there are hexes or of the wires are simply through some rock...but it's solid)

Location

Located at the North End of Moore's Wall.

Protection

Trad gear, mostly small cams. .5 camalot to a 2 camalot range.

Photos

Strange rating. An 11c with a 12a start. Nov 16, 2007
nbrown
WNC/Broomfield, CO
 
nbrown   WNC/Broomfield, CO
 
I think the rating is a bit of compromise. The start is 12, but the rest is probably no harder than 11a/b. So they call it 11c... Feb 3, 2008
Ben Sachs
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11c
Ben Sachs   Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11c
PG13 seems harsh for this route. There is bomber gear for every section. More straight-forward than a lot of routes at Moores. The start is probably 11+/12a but you are right off the ground. Feb 3, 2009
ill never understand how a route can "start" at 12/11+ and end up with a 11- grade. Apr 29, 2009
Ben Sachs
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11c
Ben Sachs   Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11c
its called sandbagging dude, no shortage at Moores. Pretty reasonable route for an 11c climber to try though. pull the boulder problem and you are cruising 5.11. oh yeah and supposedly a hold broke out of that start at some point, making it harder. May 14, 2009
Chandler Schaack
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.11c
Chandler Schaack   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.11c
There is currently a cheater block at the base, which makes the boulder problem definitely more like 11+, even for the shorter folks Jun 22, 2009
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.11b/c
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
  5.11b/c
Chandler, there's no way the start is 11+ for the truly short. V3 is perhaps the proper grade for the start. A pad would be nice if that rhodo weren't in the way. Oct 29, 2009
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.11
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
  5.11
What a great route. I think it would be a hard on-sight for a 5.11 trad climber. The gear is hard to see from below, but it's all there and bomber.

I'd agree w/ Scott, the start is a v3 if you start w/ both hands on the opening crimps (shorter people would have to jump up there).

As for the recommended gear in the description above, I used three cams that are smaller than .5. You'll definitely want TCU's down to blue, and a pink tricam protects the black roof (a bit run out but safe). Oct 22, 2011
Robert Hutchins
  5.11 PG13
Robert Hutchins  
  5.11 PG13
Strange gear description by the OP. I think people would be better off if it just said "standard Moore's rack" than what was listed. I highly recommend gear at least down to a #2 TCU, and probably multiples in the in the #3TCU/#1 Friend range (maybe even #1.5 Friend range). I find tricams really nice on this route as they save weight on the opening pull, and the climbing is more moderate where you need doubles of any size. I agree with Scott on the opening at V3. Other than that, I think it is 11b with familiarity, but you would need to be a solid mid-11 climber to on-sight. BTW, despite the great gear you get on the climb, the start is pretty serious. Given the landing situation, I would recommend approaching this as a PG13 route, as you really don't want to blow it on the last move before you have your first gear option. Dec 21, 2011
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
Went for the onsite of this and brought too way to much gear, but that is half the fun right? The start is sketchiest part, especially with all the stacked/jagged cheater stones. (That the only pg-13 part of the route). The rest you can get nice gear pretty much whenever you need it and remember if you are at strenuous hold just keep moving. Aug 17, 2015