Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tim Fisher, Jim Overby - 1985
Page Views: 277 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alexander Blum on Jul 12, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the easy face, then traverse left, just below the roof. Use double length runners to alleviate rope drag. Pull around the roof and up into the hanging corner. Getting gear into the quartzy hole to your right is very strenuous, climbing over there first would make for a pretty big, but safe, fall. After you hit the hole it is a race to the top on fairly large holds with your forearms on fire; this rig is really, really steep.

Location

Directly to the right of VD.

Protection

light rack to #2 camalot

Photos

Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.11b PG13
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
  5.11b PG13
Alex, you mean traverse just under the first roof, yes? Or do you mean traverse left under the roof? ;)

In my experience, there's good gear under that first roof, over the roof, and in the hole. All gear above the hole is optional. And the less you place, the less you are pumped, but the bigger the ride if you do pump out.

Great route. Jul 13, 2010
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
  5.11c
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
  5.11c
I don't love that number two in the hole . . . I don't know why Jul 13, 2010
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11b
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11b
Though the gear is quite specific it is good. Apr 11, 2013