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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tim Fisher, Jim Overby - 1985
Page Views: 161 total · 2/month
Shared By: Alexander Blum on Jul 12, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Climb up the easy face, then traverse left, just below the roof. Use double length runners to alleviate rope drag. Pull around the roof and up into the hanging corner. Getting gear into the quartzy hole to your right is very strenuous, climbing over there first would make for a pretty big, but safe, fall. After you hit the hole it is a race to the top on fairly large holds with your forearms on fire; this rig is really, really steep.

Location

Directly to the right of VD.

Protection

light rack to #2 camalot

Photos

Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11b
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11b
Though the gear is quite specific it is good. Apr 11, 2013
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
 
I don't love that number two in the hole . . . I don't know why Jul 13, 2010
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.11b PG13
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
  5.11b PG13
Alex, you mean traverse just under the first roof, yes? Or do you mean traverse left under the roof? ;)

In my experience, there's good gear under that first roof, over the roof, and in the hole. All gear above the hole is optional. And the less you place, the less you are pumped, but the bigger the ride if you do pump out.

Great route. Jul 13, 2010

More About Nevermore (The other one)

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