Type: Trad, 12 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tim Fisher, Jim Overby (1985)
Page Views: 117 total · 13/month
Shared By: Neil Rankin on Aug 23, 2018
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

An esoteric adventure named for the 8' roof on it's second pitch.  The roof crack is classic while the first pitch builds character.

(P1)  5.9+, 90 feet.  It begins with overhanging dirt climbing into a corner underneath a bulge.  The landing is pretty good at the base which is nice because it may take a couple times up and down to figure out the dirt crux.  

After pulling the low bulge traverse right about 15' and then up some delicate moves.  This leads to a steepening face split by a couple seams about a body length apart. Don't go left into the big wide gully crack.  The first ascensionist likely took the right seam through the face but it seems difficult with sparse pro and lichen (harder than 5.9). The natural weakness is to escape right another 15' aiming for the arete which is hiding a big crack and easy climbing. Regardless of the path, belay at the highest ledge in a cleft just underneath the roof.    

(P2)  5.10.  45 feet.  Traverse right to the crack splitting the roof.  Pull the roof and the difficulty is over.  You can climb up another full pitch of 4th class and easy 5th class if you like but getting down will require more work.  I recommend traversing up and right for the fixed anchor at the top of Spice.  The anchor is two incredibly bomber nuts, stainless steel wire, with fixed biners.  You could maybe lower to the ground but I was worried about trashing my rope so I just brought my partner up.  It's a short pitch anyway.

Location

About 50' to the climber's left of the start of Shadowdance and Spice.

Protection

Nuts, Cams to 3"

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