Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Lee Munson and Steve Pachman circa 1984
Page Views: 3,148 total · 22/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Nov 21, 2007 with improvements by DaveBaker
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

This proud route is located at the far end (from the Amphitheater) of the 1st North End cliff. The first pitch is what usually gets done, because it is a more reasonable and totally classic at 5.10. The second pitch, which is a bit more serious, sees fewer ascents. The best approach is to combine both pitches into the mega classic send.The start of Shadowdance is to be found about 25 feet to the left of Nutsweat, in a sweet, clean lie-back flack. Crank this up to a ledge and get some good gear in for the finger cracks that lead up into a right facing dihedral. There is an anchor at a stance where one can lower to the ground. Or, find the super secret number 6 BD nut placement above the anchor and crank out onto the second pitch. A little gear can be sussed out here and there. Mostly it is an adventure is finding some small stuff that will hold your confidence. Continue up and around the left side of the huge roofs above to finish at the Nutsweat anchor. Rappel from here to the ground with two ropes. Enjoy!

Protection

Gear consists of a standard Moore's Wall rack supplemented with some RPs or other brassies.

Photos

Tim Fisher  
 
This route is serious but really badass. Fall at the crux can be big but clean. Double ropes - brown pants! Jun 4, 2009
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
 
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
 
Get your stem on and bring small stoppers. Nov 4, 2016
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
Tried P1 lead again recently and since the crimp rail out right broke this seems quite a bit harder than it used to be. Way harder than 10c... Oct 22, 2017
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
did P1 yesterday, feels spot on for 10c/d for me. absolutely not 5.11 Aug 6, 2018
Will Maness
Jackson, WY
 
Will Maness   Jackson, WY
 
Incredible route! Get your nutcraft up to snuff and try not to hesitate through the crux. Get some good gear and gun it! Aug 30, 2018
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
 
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
 
Way steeper than it looks from the ground! Crazy fun Oct 14, 2018