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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Lee Munson and Steve Pachman circa 1984
Page Views: 2,820 total, 23/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Nov 21, 2007
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This proud route is located at the far end (from the Amphitheater) of the 1st North End cliff. The first pitch is what usually gets done, because it is a more reasonable and totally classic at 5.10. The second pitch, which is a bit more serious, sees fewer ascents. The best approach is to combine both pitches into the mega classic send.
The start of Shadowdance is to be found about 25 feet to the left of Nutsweat, in a sweet, clean lie-back flack. Crank this up to a ledge and get some good gear in for the finger cracks that lead up into a right facing dihedral. There is an anchor at a stance where one can lower to the ground. Or… find the super secret number 6 BD nut placement above the anchor and crank out onto the second pitch. A little gear can be sussed out here and there. Mostly it is an adventure is finding some small stuff that will hold your confidence. Continue up and around the left side of the huge roofs above to finish at the Nutsweat anchor. Rappel from here to the ground with two ropes. Enjoy!

Protection

Gear consists of a standard Moore’s Wall rack supplemented with some RP’s or other brassies.
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
 
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
 
Tried P1 lead again recently and since the crimp rail out right broke this seems quite a bit harder than it used to be. Way harder than 10c... Oct 22, 2017
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
 
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
 
Get your stem on and bring small stoppers. Nov 4, 2016
Tim Fisher  
 
This route is serious but really badass. Fall at the crux can be big but clean. Double ropes - brown pants! Jun 4, 2009