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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Tim Fisher (1988) direct finish Seth Tart
Page Views: 2,065 total · 18/month
Shared By: Stuart Turner on Nov 12, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great route that is often overlooked due to some obscure pro. The route climbs in two distinct sections. After gaining the route (see protection) a relatively short crux trough the dihedral gets you to some jugs at the roof. This is followed by some intense face climbing to the traverse and the anchors (on Reckless Abandon. This was the original route done by Fisher (12a). The route feels short, but when you lower off you see that it takes a full 60. The direct finish pushes strait up the face to a second bolt and a jug. From hear a hard move to an undercling gets you to a second anchor.

Location

Between Reckless and Death Wish

Protection

This route has some mystique due to the use of a removable bolt. It is recommended that you use double ropes (pro on Nut Sweat) because of the unprotectable traverse (5.10). There is some gear after the traverse and the bolt is at the stance. From here you place the RB and clip a fixed wire. After the crux, gear and two sets of rusty old pins takes you to the face. Small wire to a brand new bolt. Not so bad. The direct finish is definitely the way to go with one more bolt and an old anchor.

Photos

gloomis
 
gloomis  
 
Anchor updated August 2013. I led the bottom 5.10 section with two small brass placements avoiding the need for two ropes. Tim Fisher says these are mental and would not hold a fall but I think they'd stand a chance. This would be a classic route anywhere, good from start to finish. Aug 14, 2013
Due to lack of availibility of RBs I placed a glue in bolt in this hole. I will probably remove the lower bolt. Jan 21, 2012
ChanVan Schaack
  5.12c
ChanVan Schaack  
  5.12c
If you are really solid at the grade you might not need the RB- there is a bomber bolt about four feet below it to keep you off the deck- you would have to commit to the layback to clip the fixed wire, which seems bomber but is definitely small (#5 BD Steel)- the next pro is pretty damn far away though- might make the lower section more like 12a PG13... Jun 22, 2009
Ben Sachs
  5.12b/c
Ben Sachs  
  5.12b/c
Just got back from the Red, this could/would be 12+ there all day. Maybe we were too hasty in our downgrading? 12c could be reasonable for the direct finish ("New World Man") Mar 16, 2009
Ben Sachs
  5.12b/c
Ben Sachs  
  5.12b/c
Direct finish puts the crux at the top, but keeps the difficulty consistent. Amazing! Jan 26, 2009