Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Rich Gottlieb - 70s
Page Views: 338 total · 3/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on Feb 2, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

This is a cool route with some funky movement. Looking at it you would think it was much harder than it is. The opening chimney involves a variety of jamming and stemming techniques. The hand crack above is for the most part solid and well-protected, with some more tricky moves up high. While not terribly difficult, the route definitely makes you have to think outside the box.

Location

On the way into the North End, in the same little grotto where Indian Head Direct starts, directly across from it.

Protection

Cams up to a #3 and nuts oughta do it. There is an anchor on top (slung tree?) that I seem to remember as being ok, but you'd probably want to back it up for TRing.

Photos

Ben Sachs
  5.8+
Ben Sachs  
  5.8+
Tricky climb! Feb 3, 2009
Tommy Howard told me Rich Gotlieb climbed this in the 70s The name is his. Before perigrines the ravens used to hang out in force on this end of the cliff, hence the Poe names. Jun 4, 2009
b.t.miller
Charlotte, NC
  5.9
b.t.miller   Charlotte, NC
  5.9
Fisher handed me the toilet brush... cleaned up real nice. Beautiful, fun climbing. Personally felt a bit stout for 5.8 Oct 16, 2018