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Routes in North End
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Argonaut, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Bat Attack T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Enduro Man (Rides Again) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fiddlers on the Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Morton’s toe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Nevermore T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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North End Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Recommendation, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Red River Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roof Awakening T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Shamans T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13 |
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Unbroken Chain aka Juggernaut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Unknown 5.7 Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Porter Jarrard, Doug Reed (1988) |
| Page Views: | 4,141 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Chandler Van Schaack on Oct 10, 2008 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This is definitely one of the most classic lines at Moore's. The rock is some of the best at the North End, which would place it in the running for some of the best rock in the universe, the position is wild, and the gear is bomber. While there are no moves harder than 5.11+, the route is deceptively steep, the gear is kinda tricky at points, and pretty much all of the moves once you get off the ledge are at least 5.11, so by the time you get to the huge jugs at the very top you are really friggin' pumped! After the technical crux off the ledge, big moves on steep rock take you up and into the blobby dihedral system, at the top of which is another cruxy section, followed by some "Thank God" jugs at the top.
Location
Filet is at the far end of the North End, around the corner and up the hill from Mighty Mouse, and about 20 feet right of the Recommendation. To find the start, look for the obvious ledge about 20 feet up. There are a couple of ways to get there, but all are easy and somewhat chossy. From the ledge, the line follows the tiered, right-facing dihedral system to the left of the arete.
Protection
Like all Moore's routes, the pro on this one is tricky, and would make onsighting it probably feel quite hard for the grade. Stoppers, a set of TCUs, and singles of camalots up to a #2 should be sufficient. There is a fixed pin about halfway up that seems fine, although I haven't tested it to find out. The bottom 15 feet is kind of chossy, but it is easy so most people just run it out to the ledge, where you can get in plenty of bomber gear to keep you off the ground. There is a set of anchors at the top- OK for lowering, but you should back them up for TRing.
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