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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard, Doug Reed (1988)
Page Views: 2,465 total, 22/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This is definitely one of the most classic lines at Moore's. The rock is some of the best at the North End, which would place it in the running for some of the best rock in the universe, the position is wild, and the gear is bomber. While there are no moves harder than 5.11+, the route is deceptively steep, the gear is kinda tricky at points, and pretty much all of the moves once you get off the ledge are at least 5.11, so by the time you get to the huge jugs at the very top you are really friggin' pumped! After the technical crux off the ledge, big moves on steep rock take you up and into the blobby dihedral system, at the top of which is another cruxy section, followed by some "Thank God" jugs at the top.

Location

Filet is at the far end of the North End, around the corner and up the hill from Mighty Mouse, and about 20 feet right of the Recommendation. To find the start, look for the obvious ledge about 20 feet up. There are a couple of ways to get there, but all are easy and somewhat chossy. From the ledge, the line follows the tiered, right-facing dihedral system to the left of the arete.

Protection

Like all Moore's routes, the pro on this one is tricky, and would make onsighting it probably feel quite hard for the grade. Stoppers, a set of TCUs, and singles of camalots up to a #2 should be sufficient. There is a fixed pin about halfway up that seems fine, although I haven't tested it to find out. The bottom 15 feet is kind of chossy, but it is easy so most people just run it out to the ledge, where you can get in plenty of bomber gear to keep you off the ground. There is a set of anchors at the top- OK for lowering, but you should back them up for TRing.
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12a
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.12a
Filet actually gets some sun in the morning, so it's climbable on colder Moore's days. Nov 12, 2013
Tim Fisher
  5.12a
Tim Fisher  
  5.12a
I love this route. It was named for me me me ha ha ha Thanks Porter.

Seriously this thing is great and Unique. Double ropes not bad idea.

My link-up of Filet and Roof Awakening should be getting done boys. Consider yourselves chastised. Jun 4, 2009
Thanks Ben- this is true. You can also back it up with a grey alien or equivalent. Oct 13, 2008
Ben Sachs  
 
There is a fixed anchor for this route and Enduro Man, independent of The Recommendation's anchor. I think it is a fixed tricam and stopper with a rap ring. Bring a purple tcu to back it up for TR. Oct 13, 2008