Avg: 3.6 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|FA:||Porter Jarrard, Doug Reed (1988)|
|Page Views:||2,701 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||ChanVan Schaack on Oct 10, 2008|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
This is definitely one of the most classic lines at Moore's. The rock is some of the best at the North End, which would place it in the running for some of the best rock in the universe, the position is wild, and the gear is bomber. While there are no moves harder than 5.11+, the route is deceptively steep, the gear is kinda tricky at points, and pretty much all of the moves once you get off the ledge are at least 5.11, so by the time you get to the huge jugs at the very top you are really friggin' pumped! After the technical crux off the ledge, big moves on steep rock take you up and into the blobby dihedral system, at the top of which is another cruxy section, followed by some "Thank God" jugs at the top.
Filet is at the far end of the North End, around the corner and up the hill from Mighty Mouse, and about 20 feet right of the Recommendation. To find the start, look for the obvious ledge about 20 feet up. There are a couple of ways to get there, but all are easy and somewhat chossy. From the ledge, the line follows the tiered, right-facing dihedral system to the left of the arete.
Like all Moore's routes, the pro on this one is tricky, and would make onsighting it probably feel quite hard for the grade. Stoppers, a set of TCUs, and singles of camalots up to a #2 should be sufficient. There is a fixed pin about halfway up that seems fine, although I haven't tested it to find out. The bottom 15 feet is kind of chossy, but it is easy so most people just run it out to the ledge, where you can get in plenty of bomber gear to keep you off the ground. There is a set of anchors at the top- OK for lowering, but you should back them up for TRing.