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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Eric Zschiesche and Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 1,619 total, 15/month
Shared By: Christopher Barlow on Nov 10, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Nicotine was Moore's first 5.13, a fact evidenced by the rusty bolts. While pretty stout for the 13a rating given by guidebooks (for me, it was as hard if not harder than Zeus), it is nevertheless a worthwhile endeavor with technical moves (including a devious throw), excellent rock, and a bit of spice that only a Moore's Wall sport climb can offer.

While Nicotine does have an independent finish, it may or may not have anchors. Feel free to venture up the lichen-covered rock to see if they exist. I opted to finish on Mighty Mouse's final crack and anchor.

Location

Nicotine is located on the second main North End buttress, left of Vascular Disaster and just right of Mighty Mouse. It begins off the stacked boulders (the same start as Middle Road and Boogie) but steps just left and climbs clean, gray rock through two bulges. Above, it crosses a white face to a red band where can step left onto the Mighty Mouse finish.

Protection

A Moore's Wall "sport climb": 5 bolts, a fixed pin (sticking way out from the rock but seems solid otherwise), and finger-hand size cams for the Mighty Mouse crack at the top. Mighty Mouse's anchor seems like the best way to descend.

Photos

gloomis  
This classic line once again has it's own independent anchor. Don't miss out on some balancy 5.10 moves which lead to the second fixed pin that protects steep 5.8 before the anchor. Thanks to Sean Barb for the hardware and to Tim Fisher for his expertise in it's placement. Enjoy Oct 27, 2013
sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
 
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
 
back when i climbed it, nicotine had its own independent anchor. i racked up with a small tcu that protected some fun climbing between the pin and an anchor of equalized nuts. i'm relying on memories of at least 12y ago, but it seems that the anchor was roughly the same height as the mighty mouse anchor; higher than the middle road anchor ledge. the anchor just sorta rotted away and most ascents these days just traverse over to mighty mouse. Feb 1, 2009