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Routes in North End

Argonaut , The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Awakening Spirits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bat Attack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Boogie Till ya Puke T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
ByPass T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Death Wish T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Enduro Man Rides Again T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Filet-O-Fish T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Indecent Exposure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Indian Head Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Joy Loader T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Juggerhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Juggernaut T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lark's Tongue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Middle Road S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mighty Mouse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nevermore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nevermore (The other one) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Nicotine T,S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Nutsweat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rastafari T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Reckless Abandon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reckless Abandon Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Recommendation, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowdance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Shamans T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superman's Dead T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Survival Of The Fittest T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a PG13
Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vascular Disaster T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Visual Splendor T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
War Games T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Windigo T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
X-Games T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
indian toe T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Tim Fisher, Jim Overby 1981
Page Views: 4,042 total · 43/month
Shared By: Alexander Blum on Jul 8, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

The guidebook lists this as two pitches, but I think that would be a really silly way to climb this. Long runners at the very beginning keep rope drag nonexistent.

Start on the ledge that Nutsweat, Death Wish, and Reckless abandon all begin on. Negotiate a short crack/weakness through a bulge, when you pop up over this head up and left through a beautiful green corner. Near the top traverse left into a right facing corner (crux). Continue traversing left out the stupendous overhangs towards the fixed anchor.

Gear is adequate but you could go for a pretty big ride in one or two spots. Belay your second up from the anchor, one 60m rope will just get you down.

Location

North End

Protection

Small nuts help at the high crux.

Photos

Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.9+ PG13
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.9+ PG13
One more thing to note - the arete is pretty mild climbing but gear is a bit sparse and there are sections of loose rock so don't get too casual because the climbing is easy. In particular near the top there is a thin curtain of rock that is tempting to use probably a bit too much. Still, a good route worth your time. Nov 23, 2012
Pay attention to the fixed hex in the anchor, I tried to hammer it back in as best as I could, but it still wants to rattle out sideways. There is another passive piece deeper in the crack that seems bomber and a swaged chicken head, so it's good, just keep an eye on that hex. Thanks as always to those that maintain Moore's fixed gear. Nov 22, 2017
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.10a
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.10a
What is 5.9+? Think of this as a 5.10a. Bring your full set of stoppers and tricams. Aug 1, 2017
Sean M
  5.9+
Sean M  
  5.9+
Great climb. Get on it! I don't think it deserves a PG 13 rating. Gear seemed good throughout. Easy ramp start heading up and right leads to a low-crux going back left to get into the corner. Make sure to find the pro here - small cam will protect the move.

The corner climbing is fun and pretty chill, with enough gear to keep you comfortable. High crux is indeed at top of corner moving left into roof system. A couple nuts should protect the crux just fine and once it's done there are some bomber hand-size placements to be made.

Then its just the epic finish to the rings. As others have said, watch rope drag and just do it as one pitch. Enjoy. Sep 19, 2016
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.9+
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.9+
Climbing is just OK, but it gets an extra star for the exposure. Apr 11, 2013
sanz
Raleigh, NC
 
sanz   Raleigh, NC
 
One pitch is the way to go. One 60 gets you down perfectly. The variety and exposure on this route are unreal. Find gear in the dihedral, crux into the traverse, and head out into a jug haul that, in my opinion, beats the Zoo View roof any day. I can't say enough good things about this route. Do it. Nov 8, 2011

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