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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 290 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Willie Crowther and Gardiner Perry the III, 1957
Page Views: 1,336 total · 21/month
Shared By: Simon Thompson on Oct 21, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Start: At a short, blocky, right-facing corner with a protruding block about 15 feet up. This is the same start as Three Pines.

P1: Climb the short corner to a brushy ledge with a tree. Move up and left following a short corner and face passing a ledge to another ledge and belay below right-facing flakes. 5.2

P2: Climb the flakes up to a small grassy ledge and continue up and left past another ledge to the GT Ledge. 5.3

Traverse left on the GT Ledge to the second of 3 jutting pine trees. The next pitch starts at the low overhang about 15 feet right of a belay/rap station (Nemesis)

P3: Make a few moves past the low overhang and move right to small corner and another overhang (crux), above which is a small ledge. Climb fun moves up the face past a piton (another crux), aiming for the obvious block that teeters out over the face. Belay on the nice ledge under the roof above. 5.5

P4: Move up and left past the roof/corner aiming for a second pin above a slab under another big roof. Make the thin traverse left and exit up easier rock to the top. 5.5 (The Williams guidebook has this pitch at 5.3 but I thought the traverse was the crux of the route. It's possible I missed something though.)

Descent: From the top of the climb it is possible to follow a faint(at first) herd path right to the bolted rappels of Three Pines.

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john2.71
Montclair, NJ
john2.71   Montclair, NJ
A fantastic 5.5 with an unforgettable finish.

Kurtz - the first few moves off the GT Ledge are unprotected. The start of P3 isn't obvious. P2 ends by traversing left on the GT ledge to the second of three pine trees. The 2nd tree is gnarled growing horizontally at your feet. The 3rd tree is a large rap station, 15 ft to the left. P2 starts immediately right of the second pine tree. There's a ceiling above with an obvious exit about 5 ft to the right. One burly move will get you off the GT Ledge, then angle right to the exit point of the ceiling. Sep 19, 2014
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
P1 and 2 were fun but we could not find any pro on P3 off the GT so we bailed. Anyone know how?

Revised: Thanks John2.71! The trick is to relocate the belay pretty far left just as the description says (Doh!). It's much easier to approach the notch in the ceiling from the left as the beta says rather than from the right (Doh! again).

Also, it's very hard to hear/see your seconds on P3. Aug 1, 2013
A neglected route that has some good climbing. A bit blocky and bushy at the start, but the face climbing above is quite nice. Oct 25, 2012