Avg: 1.8 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 290 ft (88 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Willie Crowther and Gardiner Perry the III, 1957|
|Page Views:||2,026 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Simon Thompson on Oct 21, 2012|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1: Climb the short corner to a brushy ledge with a tree. Move up and left following a short corner and face passing a ledge to another ledge and belay below right-facing flakes. 5.2
P2: Climb the flakes up to a small grassy ledge and continue up and left past another ledge to the GT Ledge. 5.3
Traverse left on the GT Ledge to the second of 3 jutting pine trees. The next pitch starts at the low overhang about 15 feet right of a belay/rap station (Nemesis)
P3: Make a few moves past the low overhang and move right to small corner and another overhang (crux), above which is a small ledge. Climb fun moves up the face past a piton (another crux), aiming for the obvious block that teeters out over the face. Belay on the nice ledge under the roof above. 5.5
P4: Move up and left past the roof/corner aiming for a second pin above a slab under another big roof. Make the thin traverse left and exit up easier rock to the top. 5.5 (The Williams guidebook has this pitch at 5.3 but I thought the traverse was the crux of the route. It's possible I missed something though.)
Descent: From the top of the climb it is possible to follow a faint(at first) herd path right to the bolted rappels of Three Pines.