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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Todd Swain, Pat Barlow and Ray Dobkin, 1984
Page Views: 1,363 total, 20/month
Shared By: Michael G on May 21, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

An interesting, sometimes runout and sometimes contrived route that climbs around High Corner!

P1: Climb the hand crack on the left wall of the High Corner's first pitch corner. After reaching the top (crux) climb easier rock to the right of the two chimneys. Make the suffocating moves up the chimney (old pin) and make a belay at the pine tree belay/rap station. 5.7, 60 ft.

P2: Diagonal right to the right-facing corner with a large diving-board block. Climb up the corner to the overhang, where you step left to pull over. Continue up face to the GT ledge at the base of the large right-facing corner. 5.7, 80 ft

P3: Here is where things get interesting. Climb the left wall of the corner to the top. You don't get any gear for 20 feet, but the climbing is easy. The section of wall that I climbed came very close to the corner on two occasions so much so that it seemed "on" in places. Either way, you will eventually hit a good horizontal where you can get good gear and start the overhanging climbing to the top. The gear is much better past this horizontal. 5.9, 60 ft

Location

Same corner as High Corner!

Descend via the bolted Strictly rappels, to climber's left.

Protection

It's a bit awkward to place gear in the chimney (#3 BD cam), but the only real runout section was the start of the third pitch.

Photos

paulmadry  
 
Yep. Don't touch the offwidth and you get PG-R. Dirty at the top but gear gets better. Not a beginner 5.9 Aug 20, 2013
This is more difficult and considerably scarier if you decide the chimney on the third pitch is "off." That's how Todd climbed that section on the first ascent, but doing it that way seems pretty contrived. Nov 8, 2012