Mountain Project Logo

Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1956: John Wharton and Dave Isles FFA: John Turner and Craig Merrihue
Page Views: 1,757 total, 16/month
Shared By: bryan barnett on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


34 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

1. Climb the crack in the corner to a ledge (5.7). Move up left into the large right facing, right leaning corner. Pass a large pine tree (or rappel). Then up the the GT ledge and belay under the right facing corner.

2. Up the corner and make hard moves past the overhang into another corner. Exit left under the next overhang and finish up right to the top.

Location

Start in the large right facing corner to the left of Anguish, 80 feet left of Three Pines.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
P1 (up to the little tree)is very fun, excellent gear. Would be a good lead for someone breaking into the 7's. It's a little bit strenuous through the crux, but, not overly so. Did I mention it eats gear? P2 is 5.4 with some suspect rock and spaced gear. Tread carefully. P3 is the money pitch, but it's over quickly. very fun, worth doing once. Jun 17, 2014
Adam Fernandez
Matawan NJ
  5.8+ PG13
Adam Fernandez   Matawan NJ
  5.8+ PG13
I have to toss in my agreement that Pitch 2 is not 5.8, the gear is great but the pump factor is high and the moves over the roof are on less than stellar holds. I would be ok calling P2 5.9. Overall the climb isnt worth going out of your way for. May 24, 2014
Olivier
  5.8
Olivier  
  5.8
P1, Nice good pro, was dry for us. p2 (linked) easy fun, some loose rock, thread delicately. P3 Wow! Loved it. super pro, good 8, solid rock. Apr 20, 2014
Akline is right. Final pitch is no 5.8. I say 5.9+. Super strenuous lay-back with no feet out right. Nov 3, 2013
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Climbed it during a dry week, no wet spots. We went pretty much straight up to the GT rather than taking the path of least resistance. This made the middle section about 5.7 PG. A little lichen but no big deal.

The opening moves off the GT are definitely the crux. Get pro in as high as you can before cranking it. Smooth sailing after that. Walked right to Three Pines rapp.

A tad dirty but the route just needs more traffic. A fun climb if you're up for a little adventure.

What's a Glypnod? According to John Turner, his second's (guess that would be Merrihue) girlfriend named it. She was reading Anglo-Saxon at Radcliffe/Harvard and said the name meant "frightened". Aug 18, 2013
Steve Moulding
New York
 
Steve Moulding   New York
 
1993. The first pitch was short but sweet. P2 was lichen covered and looked decidedly loose. No thanks. Rapped down. Jun 7, 2012
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
  5.8
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
  5.8
The first and last pitches are worth doing with great gear. It was dry on a warm January day, but I could see the first pitch being damp at other times. The crux on pitch 3 is good, pumpy, well-protected fun.

The second pitch can be linked to the first with doubles or long slings and thoughtful rope management, but is not particularly interesting. It had some loose spots, but there was gear to be had. Not sure I'd call it "R", perhaps PG-13 if not just PG. Jan 12, 2012
worth russell
Brooklyn, NY
 
worth russell   Brooklyn, NY
 
Wow, I found this climb to be dirty, grassy and not much fun. It seems like the climb is always wet and dank. If you are into adventure routes or atypical gunks routes this may be for you. To me it felt like an adirondack adventure. Nov 28, 2011
akline
  5.9- PG13
akline  
  5.9- PG13
The initial corner is very fun, then you have to climb some run-out 5.4 to the GT and belay under the right facing corner.
The last pitch of this is burly. It felt like hard Gunks 5.9 to me, with an MF-quality pump factor. The gear is great on the last pitch though. Overall the whole climb was dirty, but I think with some travel this would be a great route, and unique for the Gunks because of the crack climbing. Sep 19, 2011