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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: TR, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Bein, Mark Robinson, Barbara Devine, Roy Kligfield
Page Views: 465 total, 11/month
Shared By: Optimistic on Jul 24, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Nice 5.7-5.8 face climbing leads up to and over a big roof. [Note, we only did the first pitch, Williams describes a second pitch also]

Location

Look straight up from the start of Strictly. The lip of the huge roof above you has some little right facing corner-breaks in it, about 12-15' right of the Strictly P1 bolts. Note, the bigger corner/break in line with the Shockley's starting corner is too far right.

Protection

Begin by gaining the Strictly From Nowhere anchor, noting that Strictly sees a lot of traffic. Set up the bolts to TR, and step right over the tree. A directional can be set about 12' straight right of the bolts. I got a green, red, and yellow C4 right next to each other in a flare about 5' above the lip. The flare would also take a #3 C4.

This would be a mighty serious lead. There is no gear between the ledge at 2/3 height and the end of the route.

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