Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||TR, 110 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Kevin Bein, Mark Robinson, Barbara Devine, Roy Kligfield|
|Page Views:||486 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Optimistic on Jul 24, 2014|
DescriptionNice 5.7-5.8 face climbing leads up to and over a big roof. [Note, we only did the first pitch, Williams describes a second pitch also]
LocationLook straight up from the start of Strictly. The lip of the huge roof above you has some little right facing corner-breaks in it, about 12-15' right of the Strictly P1 bolts. Note, the bigger corner/break in line with the Shockley's starting corner is too far right.
ProtectionBegin by gaining the Strictly From Nowhere anchor, noting that Strictly sees a lot of traffic. Set up the bolts to TR, and step right over the tree. A directional can be set about 12' straight right of the bolts. I got a green, red, and yellow C4 right next to each other in a flare about 5' above the lip. The flare would also take a #3 C4.
This would be a mighty serious lead. There is no gear between the ledge at 2/3 height and the end of the route.
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