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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Richard Goldstone and Dick Williams, 1968
Page Views: 1,141 total, 16/month
Shared By: lucander on Dec 6, 2011
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

P. 1 (5.9+) Climb the thin face and crack (crux) 20 feet to the first protection. Continue up the somewhat lichenated face to a belay atop the block above the slung anchor for No Recollection. Make sure that you have small gear, tricams, and know how to use them, this anchor takes creativity. (60 feet)

P. 2 (5.9+) Climb up and left about fifteen feet, then move up the steep bulge (crux 1) to a stance on a comfortable ledge. Continue up to a small, right-facing corner with an old piton (back it up). Climb the clean face to the right (crux 2) on incredible crimps to a stance. Continue up to the GTL, aim for the right side of the right-most tree for the cleanest rock. Belay here (good gear, but sketchy rock) or set a bomber directional and walk left 35 feet to a healthy belay tree.

P. 3 (5.9) This pitch is basically a variation to Simple Ceilings. Climb a low overhang, then pass a few smaller overhangs to a comfortable ledge at the bottom of a hanging right-facing corner (gulp) and an optional belay. Move up and out this corner (great pro) to an exposed perch and an optional belay. Continue up fifteen feet of easy rock to the top.

Descend by the anchor lines at Strictly or 3 Pines, or walk back to the Uberfall.

Location

Start at a very thin right-slanting crack on the right side of the Nemesis Buttress.

Protection

A full quiver of gear including tiny cams, micro wires, and tricams. Build all of your own belays.

Photos

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rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
First ascent Richard Goldstone and Dick Williams, 1968. (I "discovered" the line and led pitches 1 and 2 so don't deserve to be left entirely off the FA credits!) thanks - added to route info - JSH

I don't know if new micro gear has improved the situation significantly, but if not the first pitch is more like R than PG-13, and as usual for Gunks 9+'s, it might be 10a. Pitch 2 had a really old pin down and left that might have indicated an aid ascent earlier. Oct 9, 2014
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
 
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
 
You'll find PR-13ish sections on pitches 1 and 2. The start follows a right-slanting crack with a un-protected or poorly protected crux 10' up. The beginning of the second pitch has some suspect rock, make sure you protect in the good stuff. The crux pin is damn near useless, but can be backed up. Do so, because you're gunning it for a few body lengths through positive holds and a little lichen until you get good gear in a small right-facing corner. Feb 8, 2012
JSH

JSH    
Dave, what's the PG13 part (the start?), or is it just generally necky? Jan 13, 2012
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
 
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
 
This might be my favorite 5.9 at the Gunks. Each pitch is different, and it feels like a little adventure because you're building anchors all the way up. Run-out and a little spooky with a touch of lichen here and there, kind of like lots of outstanding but under-appreciated routes at Poke-O. Certainly a highlight of my season. Dec 6, 2011