Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Richard Goldstone and Dick Williams, 1968
Page Views: 1,337 total · 15/month
Shared By: lucander on Dec 6, 2011
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

P. 1 (5.9+) Climb the thin face and crack (crux) 20 feet to the first protection. Continue up the somewhat lichenated face to a belay atop the block above the slung anchor for No Recollection. Make sure that you have small gear, tricams, and know how to use them, this anchor takes creativity. (60 feet)

P. 2 (5.9+) Climb up and left about fifteen feet, then move up the steep bulge (crux 1) to a stance on a comfortable ledge. Continue up to a small, right-facing corner with an old piton (back it up). Climb the clean face to the right (crux 2) on incredible crimps to a stance. Continue up to the GTL, aim for the right side of the right-most tree for the cleanest rock. Belay here (good gear, but sketchy rock) or set a bomber directional and walk left 35 feet to a healthy belay tree.

P. 3 (5.9) This pitch is basically a variation to Simple Ceilings. Climb a low overhang, then pass a few smaller overhangs to a comfortable ledge at the bottom of a hanging right-facing corner (gulp) and an optional belay. Move up and out this corner (great pro) to an exposed perch and an optional belay. Continue up fifteen feet of easy rock to the top.

Descend by the anchor lines at Strictly or 3 Pines, or walk back to the Uberfall.

Location

Start at a very thin right-slanting crack on the right side of the Nemesis Buttress.

Protection

A full quiver of gear including tiny cams, micro wires, and tricams. Build all of your own belays.

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