Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Richard Goldstone and Dick Williams, 1968|
|Page Views:||1,613 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||lucander on Dec 6, 2011|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P. 2 (5.9+) Climb up and left about fifteen feet, then move up the steep bulge (crux 1) to a stance on a comfortable ledge. Continue up to a small, right-facing corner with an old piton (back it up). Climb the clean face to the right (crux 2) on incredible crimps to a stance. Continue up to the GTL, aim for the right side of the right-most tree for the cleanest rock. Belay here (good gear, but sketchy rock) or set a bomber directional and walk left 35 feet to a healthy belay tree.
P. 3 (5.9) This pitch is basically a variation to Simple Ceilings. Climb a low overhang, then pass a few smaller overhangs to a comfortable ledge at the bottom of a hanging right-facing corner (gulp) and an optional belay. Move up and out this corner (great pro) to an exposed perch and an optional belay. Continue up fifteen feet of easy rock to the top.
Descend by the anchor lines at Strictly or 3 Pines, or walk back to the Uberfall.