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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 225 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Phil Jacobus and John Hudson (1962)
Page Views: 1,367 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 3, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

This climb is really not worth doing, and the latter parts of P2 and P3 have some manky rock. I am 5'7" and had no trouble with the opening jump. My 6'3" partner reached the holds w/o jumping. It's probably best to be sure your second can make the jump so rope stretch does not create an ankle buster. I'd definitely advise against combining pitches for the same reason.

P1 - Jump for the good holds just above the overhang (crux). Work your way up the path of least resistance past some grassy ledges and a lower-angled face to a belay below a left-facing corner.

P2 - Move up the inside corner until the path of least resistance lures you right to the outside corner and up to a ledge. Step right and up the face to the GT ledge.

P3 - Climb the crack and right-facing corner to an overhang, move left (crux) and up to a bolted belay/rap anchor.

There are numerous variations and several ways to go on both the first and second pitches.

Location

About 35 feet right of the Ribs arete, at a long overhang about 6 feet above the ground.

Protection

Standard Gunks Rack.

Photos

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micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
This is a nice way to finish up ""ribs"". The third pitch overhang was quite fun. then the climbing gets much easier to the top. my shorter second had trouble getting the jug over the roof, she eventually had to dyno for it. Sep 5, 2011
Good climb, quite technical on the slab about 50 feet up. You need to be a solid 5.8+ climber to lead this without trouble. Good rock all the way to the top. May 19, 2014

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