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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Burt Angrist (1965)
Page Views: 2,334 total, 19/month
Shared By: JesseLittleton on Sep 24, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

P1, 5.8 PG: Climb up past the left-facing flake to a ledge at 30', step right, then straight up into an open book / dihedral capped by a roof. Move up and right (exiting left is "thoughtful" and harder), and belay at a stance (80 ft).

P2, 5.5: Climb the face above, diagonaling right on easier rock to the GT ledge.

P3, 5.8 PG: From the GT ledge, traverse to the right a bit (about 20 feet right of a small tree on the GT ledge, 10 feet left around the corner from three pines anchor) and make delicate moves over to a roof. Face climbing above leads to the top (50 ft). Be careful of large, loose rocks on this pitch.

Location

40 feet right of Glypnod's right-facing corner, and left of Three Pines. Look for the dihedral with a roof.

Protection

I felt like placing the pro was pretty strenuous, but I am leading pretty close to my limit at 5.8.

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TYoung Young
  5.8
TYoung Young  
  5.8
Just climbed this on Saturday 5/20/17, and was very surprised to the comments around lack of good pro on this route. I found this to be solid G gear on pitch 1 and 3, with PG gear on the 2nd pitch (lots of loose rock). I saw the comment saying the slab to the top is 5.6R as well and found that very off, there are many horizontals that will take single axle cams, or tri-cams, without issue every 6-10 feet. I think I placed a yellow C3, and green through red totem basics on that final bit and found them to be solid. If you only had double axle cams however, it might be more marginal. May 22, 2017
Walt Heenan
New Paltz, NY
  5.9- PG13
Walt Heenan   New Paltz, NY
  5.9- PG13
Really enjoyed this route. The first pitch was thoughtful and the gear was not trivial. It seemed like there were lots of placements, but few of them were inspiring - either flaring or weird, knobbly cracks that didn't want to seat either cams or nuts. But great climbing with reasonable gear if you are adept. The Trapps App had this rated at 5.7 seemed about right to me.

The second pitch was rated at 5.3 by the Trapps App and it may be right, but I would not want to be a 5.3 leader venturing out onto that terrain. The moves were all there, but the rock often sounded hollow and it is especially steep for a 5.3. Also, you need to be very careful to avoid rope drag.

The GT ledge has lots of loose stuff - both big and small - here, so have a care for the folks below.

The third pitch was steep, pumpy, and seemed harder than 5.8. it is tempting to just clip the old rusty pin under the overhang (as my partner did), but I wouldn't want to fall on it. Thrilling and exposed. Jul 5, 2015
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
Last pitch is indeed not obvious to find. It is about 20 feet right of a small tree on the GT ledge, 10 feet left around the corner from three pines anchor, as described above. I also thought this pitch was harder than 5.8, with tricky pro and potential for falling back onto the GT ledge. But super fun anyway! Apr 20, 2015
SethG  
The last pitch of Anguish is on the main face of the cliff just around the corner (to the left) from the Three Pines rap route. I think your friends did it. And it isn't 5.10. It has steep 5.8 moves up to the overhang (this is the crux bit) and then the overhang itself is easier. May 28, 2014
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Could not find P3. We hit the GT about 30 ft right of the Glypnod corner. The roof above us (left and right) was way harder than 5.8. Another party looked too. Finally, we finished on Glypnod and they took a line about 30 ft to the right which they said was about 5.10a. Can anyone provide more info? May 28, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Did P1 and really enjoyed it. Interesting move out of the corner, on to the face. Jun 20, 2012
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
 
strenuous pro indeed on that third pitch... whoever pounded in the manky piton just below the crux was quite a stud. surprised at how pleasant the 5.2 second pitch was. Mar 19, 2012
JSH

JSH    
... or he was just a better climber than I, and apparently quite a character. From the book: "Named for Burt Angrist who, on the first ascent, managed to hit his thumb, drop a piton, lose his glasses, and fall, all in one incredibly deft motion." May 21, 2010
It's easy to believe that the reachy moves between the ledges that JSH mentions were not part of the original line, having seen how short Burt Angrist is (grin). May 19, 2010
JSH

JSH    
I had trouble with the first pitch - there's a couple of long/burly moves off of a ledge about 30' up, which are not well protected, or trickier than I could manage to protect well. Aug 18, 2009