Avg: 2.2 from 73 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy and Burt Angrist (1965)|
|Page Views:||3,591 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||SethG on Sep 24, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P2, 5.5: Climb the face above, diagonaling right on easier rock to the GT ledge.
Once you reach the GT Ledge, you'll want to re-establish a belay about twenty feet to the right, near the edge of the wall. Just around the corner to your right will be the Three Pines bolted rappel station.
P3, 5.8 PG: Look up and spot a hanging, right-facing corner that is about five feet high and is just underneath a ceiling. This corner is maybe ten feet to the left of the right edge of the wall. You're aiming for this hanging corner.
Start up the face almost at the right edge of the wall, and drift diagonally up and left for 8 or 10 feet until you reach a shallow overlap. From the overlap, wander a bit right then back left, in order to position yourself underneath the hanging corner. Clip the pin and then figure out how to go straight up (crux) to the top of the corner, under the ceiling. Place bomber gear at the ceiling (whew), and make the slightly easier exposed moves out left to escape the overhang. Scamper straight to the top, passing some very nice slab climbing in the last ten feet before the top of the cliff.
The climbing around the overlap and hanging corner is kind of pumpy and in-your-face until you finish the crux. There is gear along the way, but once you're under the hanging corner the only pro I've managed to get is a rusty old piton, that you may have to look around to find.