Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Burt Angrist (1965)
Page Views: 4,340 total · 21/month
Shared By: SethG on Sep 24, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1, 5.8 PG: Climb up past the left-facing flake to a ledge at 30', step right, then straight up into an open book / dihedral capped by a roof.  Exit the alcove to its left (exiting right is 5.4), and belay at a stance (80 ft).

P2, 5.5: Climb the face above, diagonaling right on easier rock to the GT ledge.  

Once you reach the GT Ledge, you'll want to re-establish a belay about twenty feet to the right, near the edge of the wall. Just around the corner to your right will be the Three Pines bolted rappel station.

P3, 5.8 PG: Look up and spot a hanging, right-facing corner that is about five feet high and is just underneath a ceiling. This corner is maybe ten feet to the left of the right edge of the wall. You're aiming for this hanging corner.

Start up the face almost at the right edge of the wall, and drift diagonally up and left for 8 or 10 feet until you reach a shallow overlap. From the overlap, wander a bit right then back left, in order to position yourself underneath the hanging corner. Clip the pin and then figure out how to go straight up (crux) to the top of the corner, under the ceiling. Place bomber gear at the ceiling (whew), and make the slightly easier exposed moves out left to escape the overhang. Scamper straight to the top, passing some very nice slab climbing in the last ten feet before the top of the cliff.          

The climbing around the overlap and hanging corner is kind of pumpy and in-your-face until you finish the crux. There is gear along the way, but once you're under the hanging corner the only pro I've managed to get is a rusty old piton, that you may have to look around to find.

Location Suggest change

40 feet right of Glypnod's right-facing corner, and left of Three Pines. Look for the dihedral with a roof.

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