Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Pitch 1, Dick Williams, Marisa Clickner. Pitch 2, Jim McCarthy, Ants Leemets
Page Views: 2,124 total · 20/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 21, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

1. Climb to a small ledge. Move up until you can grab a small, left facing flake (crux) that is at the base of a short, left facing corner. Belay about 30-40 feet higher at a decent stance. There are some obvious, right-facing flakes immediately above this point. 5.10a, 80 feet.

2. Go up and left from the belay, trend back right a bit (you should be more or less directly above your belayer at that point), and blast over a bulge on good holds (crux). Move up and left to a fixed pin, climb past that (second crux), then head slightly right to the GT ledge. 5.9+, 90 feet.

Traverse to climbers' right and descend via the bolted line next to Three Pines.

Location

About 30 or 40 feet left of the start of Three Pines; look for a clean section of rock and vertical seam a short distance off the deck.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack

Photos

chewtoynj   NJ
It's a fun route. The second pitch climbing was even more fun than the first pitch climbing. Just a few bigger moves on some great overhanging holds. Nov 7, 2011
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.10-
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.10-
10a? Funny that this and neighboring Nemesis get the same grade in grey Dick. Thought the crux of this climb was an easy stand up on great feet with good protection. Apr 23, 2014
Agreed. Easier than Nemesis. But a great climb nonetheless! Did some unknown third pitch at the top that was poorly protected, hard for "5.8," and fun. Not really sure what it was, but it started by traversing right and then back left with some overhangs. Jun 3, 2014
Suburban Roadside
Abovetraffic on Hudson
Suburban Roadside   Abovetraffic on Hudson
Another one of my "variations" that has a full line that crosses the others, much closer to 5.10 than .9, gear where you need it. Jun 25, 2014
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.9
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.9
I followed the first pitch yesterday. It seemed very easy for the grade. The gear was good enough. The crux left facing flake seems barely attached. Apr 9, 2016
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
Agree that P1 feels easy for the grade, though perhaps height dependent? My concern is the pro. It's either below your feet when you make the step up or you are putting gear behind the barely there flake. That being said as soon as you make the move you grab a good hold and can get in really good gear. Also definitely seems like the flake will rip off at some point...

P2 is far better IMO. Pumpy exposed 5.9 with a traverse and bulge. I think linking this with pitches 1 and 3 of Anguish would make for a classic. Mar 7, 2017
Left facing flake at crux is no longer there. Dec 3, 2017
SethG  
Wow I was just on this route a week ago and it was still there! Has the difficulty and/or the gear changed? Dec 3, 2017
Chris W
Somerville, MA
Chris W   Somerville, MA
Did P2 of Ruby Saturday after P1 of Anguish (and finished on Anguish). What a good link-up! Highly enjoyable. A really pumpy climb linked up that way. Oct 16, 2018