Avg: 2.7 from 46 votes
|Type:||Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Dave Ingalls and Charlie Bookman (1968)|
|Page Views:||2,858 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Schafstall on Apr 3, 2008|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Pitch 1 is also in the Williams' guide as the start to Oscar and Charlie and can be used to bypass slow parties on, or as an alternate start to, Strictly From Nowhere.
P1 - Climb the orange corner to a bulge, surmount it (crux) and continue to top of corner, then step right up to a small ledge. Belay above or near a pine tree to continue with Strictly From Nowhere or the "Oscar and Charlie" link-up; or continue up to the base of an arching left-facing corner (for Travels).
P2 - Climb past the white flakes to a large overhang. Traverse right (crux) past loose rock (airy) onto the face, then up a short right-facing corner and then a left-facing corner to overhangs. Move right around the hangs and up a bulging face to the right side of a long overhang. Climb it, then up to a belay/rap tree on the GT ledge.
P3 - Climb the crack to a ledge, then up a nice easy face to a large ledge another short headwall. Up this to the top. This pitch is actually very nice.
Descend via the bolted Strictly From Nowhere rappel line.