Type: Trad, 240 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dave Ingalls and Charlie Bookman (1968)
Page Views: 1,873 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 3, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Location

At the large orange left-facing corner just left of Strictly From Nowhere.

Description

The R section is really not too bad (some loose rock that can be avoided), and the rest of the climb is actually quite nice. The crux is similar to Moonlight -- a somewhat blind step around a bulge.

Pitch 1 is also in the Williams' guide as the start to Oscar and Charlie and can be used to bypass slow parties on, or as an alternate start to, Strictly From Nowhere.

P1 - Climb the orange corner to a bulge, surmount it (crux) and continue to top of corner, then step right up to a small ledge. Belay above or near a pine tree to continue with Strictly From Nowhere or the "Oscar and Charlie" link-up; or continue up to the base of an arching left-facing corner (for Travels).

P2 - Climb past the white flakes to a large overhang. Traverse right (crux) past loose rock (airy) onto the face, then up a short right-facing corner and then a left-facing corner to overhangs. Move right around the hangs and up a bulging face to the right side of a long overhang. Climb it, then up to a belay/rap tree on the GT ledge.

P3 - Climb the crack to a ledge, then up a nice easy face to a large ledge another short headwall. Up this to the top. This pitch is actually very nice.

Descend via the bolted Strictly From Nowhere rappel line.

Protection

Standard Gunks Rack.

Photos

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Ross Fadely  
 
Linking the first pitch into Strickly's crux is definitely the way to go! Apr 4, 2008
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
 
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
 
I agree, it's a great link up Sep 10, 2011
Bill Atkinson
Cambridge, MA
Bill Atkinson   Cambridge, MA
"Travails" With Charlie: wp.me/p6Isot-7X a climbing vignette Apr 4, 2018
SethG  
I enjoyed your article, Bill!

I did pitch 2 last year. I don't think it gets done much these days, due to the R rating. The rating is probably deserved but the moves around the corner are not bad. Good holds, juggy. Apr 5, 2018