Travels With Charley
Avg: 2.6 from 18 votes
Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's
|Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X|
|Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R|
|Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Type:||Trad, 240 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Dave Ingalls and Charlie Bookman (1968)|
|Page Views:||1,630 total, 14/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Schafstall on Apr 3, 2008|
LocationAt the large orange left-facing corner just left of Strictly From Nowhere.
DescriptionThe R section is really not too bad (some loose rock that can be avoided), and the rest of the climb is actually quite nice. The crux is similar to Moonlight -- a somewhat blind step around a bulge.
Pitch 1 is also in the Williams' guide as the start to Oscar and Charlie and can be used to bypass slow parties on, or as an alternate start to, Strictly From Nowhere.
P1 - Climb the orange corner to a bulge, surmount it (crux) and continue to top of corner, then step right up to a small ledge. Belay above or near a pine tree to continue with Strictly From Nowhere or the "Oscar and Charlie" link-up; or continue up to the base of an arching left-facing corner (for Travels).
P2 - Climb past the white flakes to a large overhang. Traverse right (crux) past loose rock (airy) onto the face, then up a short right-facing corner and then a left-facing corner to overhangs. Move right around the hangs and up a bulging face to the right side of a long overhang. Climb it, then up to a belay/rap tree on the GT ledge.
P3 - Climb the crack to a ledge, then up a nice easy face to a large ledge another short headwall. Up this to the top. This pitch is actually very nice.
Descend via the bolted Strictly From Nowhere rappel line.
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