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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dick Williams and Peter Darmi
Page Views: 521 total, 12/month
Shared By: Simon Thompson on Apr 22, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Covered in lichen. Could be better if cleaned up quite a bit but cannot be recommended at the moment.

Climb up small corner/face to a rest stance (5.7, unprotected). Move up the face aiming for two tiny right-facing corners. Climb past a difficult section (5.9 PG-R) trending slightly right and up past smaller overhangs, to a stance beneath the final overhang. Pull the overhang just right of its widest part (5.10b/c G) or escape right and up (5.6).

Location

From the GT ledge, halfway between the last pitches of High Coroner and Nemesis, at a short right-facing corner.

The line moves up on lichen, frustratingly close to cleaner rock.

Protection

Normal Gunks rack. Pro gets better towards the top, but many of the lower gear placements are in very dirty cracks.

Photos

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JSH

JSH    
Eugene, might you have done the last pitch of Anguish? Seems like there's some confusion over above-the-GT pitches up there. Jun 3, 2014
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
 
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
 
I thought I followed the route as described in grey Dick exactly but found the pro to be questionable and the holds lichen-covered. Maybe I was off-route? Or maybe different strokes for different folks... Jun 3, 2014
Eugene Kwan  
 
Seemed well-protected, relatively clean, and pleasant to me. A great finish to Nemesis. (At least, it felt well protected after Nemesis...) Not sure why this gets the "bomb" icon. Jun 3, 2014