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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Steve Larsen, DIck Williams, John Hudson, Jim McCarthy, and Phil Jacobus 1966
Page Views: 2,249 total, 19/month
Shared By: Ross Fadely on Jan 12, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

A friendly boulder problem crux and nice climbing above make this a fun one. Almost always open.

P1- Boulder up the thin crack and head through some interesting climbing going straight up to the ledge. Climb straight up past a left-facing corner, then head right to the other left-facing corner. Follow this to the top until you're at the nice belay ledge.

P2- Tricky for tall folk. Step left and climb the obvious overhang. Head up past some loose stuff to the GT and a belay tree.

P3- Climb up the left facing corner formed by the massive jutting block. Work up the arete of the block, a little ways above your gear. Short but fun.

Alternate start for P1 at the next crack on the right. Same grade?

Location

Just right of the Glyptodon corner at the first thin crack.

Protection

Standard rack to 2"

Photos

SethG  
I climbed the right crack. Got a good Alien in the little pod one move up. This protected the hardest move. But there are a couple of hard moves right after and if you blew it before getting the next piece of gear you would deck. Mar 10, 2017
teresamatrix
Los Angeles, CA
teresamatrix   Los Angeles, CA
If you want to skip the sketchy start, you can climb the big right facing corner 10 feet to the left (Glyptodon) and then traverse over some loose flakes to meet up with the rest. Oct 6, 2014
Eugene Kwan  
 
Start is quite scary. I'd also recommend a bouldering pad. Great route. We finished on Armadillo, which was excellent as well. Jun 3, 2014
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
 
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
 
Hmmmm... would have felt better with a bouldering pad. Once you figure out the beta it's not soooo bad but a fall in the first 10-15' would really suck. Once you're past the crux you get some way better holds to place gear from. I used the left crack and face holds and even got a wide stem over to the right crack. Fun climb. Apr 23, 2014
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9+
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9+
There is some discrepancy as to which crack actually is Nemesis, but both seem .10a and poorly protected. Sep 22, 2012
Willow Toso
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Willow Toso   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Combine pitch 1 and 2 for an awesome climb! Gear off the deck is tricky. May 3, 2010