Avg: 2 from 22 votes
Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's
|Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X|
|Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13|
|Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R|
|Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Type:||Trad, 210 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Dick Williams, Ants Leemets, 1966|
|Page Views:||1,695 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006|
DescriptionThe route gets its name from what a fall on pitch 2 would sound/feel like. The first pitch is worth doing at least once, but there is a very height-related move at the crux.
P1: Start 40' left of Strictly From Nowhere. There is an attractive-looking short face to the left of a shallow right-facing corner. Climb this face using small cams in horizontals for gear. There is a very reachy move at the top, before you pull onto the slab. Follow the slab (5.9-) up and right to a sling anchor (replaced 5/2011) in a hollow flake. 5.10a, 70'.
Rappel from here, or continue...
P2: Climb the corner, then angle up right to a white face and corner. Step up the corner to get high pro, then downclimb and traverse right around the arete (crux) onto a face and belay below an overhang. 5.9R, 70'.
P3: Angle up right and climb a notch through an overhang to the GT Ledge. 5.7, 60'.