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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Ants Leemets and Jim McCarthy, 1966
Page Views: 1,899 total, 24/month
Shared By: Dan Allard on Apr 11, 2011
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

P1: Climb the right-facing corner.

P2 goes up to the obvious left-facing blocky roof near a laurel bush, to the right, then to a large belay ledge w/cedar trees on it.

P3 is short: climb up under the tree growing out of the roof. Follow a left-facing dihedral until you get to a roof. Traverse right onto an exposed and blocky face to pass the roof.

Location

20 feet to right of Calisthenic, at end of a low roof: start up a right facing corner.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

- No Photos -
Didn't remember the directions and ended up on P2 of Gaston because we went left instead of right at the rhododendron. It was really easy 5.5, which means if you're not a 5.7 climber, if you do P2 of Gaston you get a 5.6, 5.5, 5.5 link up. Nice climbing on P1 & P3. Some of the rocks in the corner of P2 looked pretty loose, wasn't sure about placing any gear behind them. But after the bush I went the wrong way anyway... Nov 7, 2015
kswissto
Boulder, CO
kswissto   Boulder, CO
Definitely agree with Kurtz' comment above. If you go to the second corner to the right, it's dirty, and if you follow all the route beta from doing *that* corner, you're going to end up on Gaston's P2... Jul 23, 2014
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
I believe GMD's corner is precisely at the end of the Calisthenic roof (not the other right-facing corner 20 ft further right). The Grey Dick mentions a crack starting 5 ft off the ground, but we couldn't find it. P1 as described here is very short (35 ft?).

Linking P1 & P2 worked well. About 180 ft. total. Bring lots of gear and some long slings. There is no one correct path up the face, just look for gear and aim for the laurel bush. The blocky corner can be wet but the holds are good. And not to quibble but the trees are pines, not cedars. Didn't see any tape/webbing.

P3 starts on the GT about 35 left of the top of P2. We moved the belay so the second can see the leader pull the roof (no way it's 5.5). The move above the roof is dirty and slopey. Protect it with a small cam on the left.

P3 ends in the shrubbery (no path). Bushwhack left 30 ft to the Ribs rappel station. Watch for newbies below! Jun 15, 2014
focus  
We missed the tape, webbing or whatever at end of p1. We traversed right at the tree on p2 but may have gone a move or two high as this is easier than 5.7. We followed p3 according to Williams (the description above is confusing), fun little roof. All in all, a fun route and good (aka easier I thought) for an aspiring 5.5/5.6 leader. Apr 20, 2012
Alicia Sokolowski
Brooklyn, NY
Alicia Sokolowski   Brooklyn, NY
I was not aware they couldn't be used interchangeably. I know Sterling makes webbing called Tech Tape. I have regularly seen the two terms referenced together. To be as clear as I can, it is BlueWater 1 inch webbing. May 9, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
I think what they meant to say is "webbing", though I do recall the term "tape" being used in the past, as well. Either way, the anchor is safer now. May 9, 2011
Alicia Sokolowski
Brooklyn, NY
Alicia Sokolowski   Brooklyn, NY
Tape and rap rings added today to top of p1. If you follow the crack as the gray Dick suggests, be prepared for dirt. May 8, 2011