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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1950s: Oscar Dorfman (Oscar's Variation)
Page Views: 4,891 total · 40/month
Shared By: bryan barnett on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

1. Oscar variation as a start to Strictly From Nowhere: Climb the large left-facing corner over a bulge to the top of the corner. Either stop at a tree, or trend right towards the large left facing Strictly corner and overhang. Move right and up to bolt anchors behind the Strictly pine tree.

2. Oscar to Travels With Charley: After the corner, move up the face to a good horizontal. Traverse left 15 feet to join Travels With Charley. Climb up to an overhang and move up and right at a break. A bit dirty.

Location

Start in the large left-facing corner to the left of Strictly From Nowhere; this is 40' to the left of Shockley's Ceiling.

Approach via the trail that rises almost directly across from the top of the Stairmaster.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

doligo
  5.7
doligo  
  5.7
Better, more sustained way to approach Strictly's roof, IMO. Finished on Shockley's Ceiling. Aug 9, 2010
Heather S
Dallas, TX
Heather S   Dallas, TX
We did Oscar and Charlie, P2 finishs up with 2 small roofs/ledges that have a few slightly pumpy moves. Nice variation over doing the Shockley's finish. Sep 27, 2010
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
Broke this into three pitches as the grey Williams guide says (I led Strictly's :-) This worked well since the area was rather crowded and there were three of us. Avoided Shockley's Ceiling and the traffic jam of people there. Overall the route was quite worthwhile. Apr 9, 2012
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I very much enjoy P1. Sep 25, 2012
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
Clarification: P1 ends at BOLT anchors behind the second, smaller pine tree; not the first, bigger pine tree with a rapp anchor.

If you link Shockley's from the O.C. bolts, you can just make it to the top with a 60m rope, but belay from the tree to the right of the normal Shockley's finish. Oct 30, 2013
rogerbenton  
 
P1- great little corner. Nov 14, 2013
Josh Smethers
Malvern, pa
  5.7
Josh Smethers   Malvern, pa
  5.7
Fun short corner with good stemming and pro. Apr 13, 2014
Ben Hoste
Tucson, AZ
 
Ben Hoste   Tucson, AZ
 
One could fairly easily combine the starting "Oscar" corner and the bit from Strictly, which would end up as a very exciting and fun filled pitch. Combing this with Shockley's would be a great combo. The final pitch of Oscar Charlie has some nice finger jams though. Curious if anyone has climbed an ultimate pitch from the GT ledge the top of the cliff as part of Oscar Charlie? Didn't seem clear to me that there was one, but it could be nice to top out this route. Jun 9, 2017

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