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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 225 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Fritz Wiessner and Roger Wolcott, 1942.
Page Views: 3,789 total · 28/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A one-star climb just to the right of Shockley's Ceiling, this route is a hidden gem. A somewhat run-out and spicy 5.3 first pitch (definitely not for a 5.3 or even 5.4 leader), leading to an odd, crescent-shaped second pitch with really nice moves (5.2-5.3 G/PG), eventually leads to a beautiful offwidth/dihedral (5.5 PG) that just keeps coming at you. Make certain to check the guidebook topo; there's a 5.8 PG route that overlaps this one, and it's easy to get off-route.

P1: Climb up alcove to right-facing dihedral; follow the dihedral to a pine tree or continue slightly up and right to the base of some overhead right-facing corners. 5.3, 75'.

P2: Follow the right-facing corner system up and right in a "C" shape to the GT ledge; walk right along GT ledge to a large arete, walk around corner to grassy area underneath imposing dihedral. 5.2, 100'.

P3: Climb the dihedral to the top. Due to rope drag, you can build an intermediate anchor on the GT ledge almost directly above the rappel tree from P1 belay and bring up the second, then do a short (20 foot) traverse to get around the corner. 5.5, 80'.

Descent: Rappel off the Shockley's Ceiling rappel, or walk about 50 yards to climber's left to the bolted Ribs rappel. There is a rappel station just to climber's right of the P2 belay, but it's two rappels to the ground -- and the intermediate rappel station is nothing to write home about.

Location [Suggest Change]

Approximately 60 feet right of Shockley's Ceiling, in a right-facing dihedral with a short "chimney" or alcove.

Protection [Suggest Change]

P1: The crux moves have protection. I put in 3 pieces in 75 feet. With larger cams (3.5, 4) there might be more protection.
P2: adequate, but fiddly.
P3: looks adequate, maybe PG; we had to bail off due to the last pitch being dripping wet.
Michael G
  5.5 PG13
Michael G  
  5.5 PG13
Gear at crux on pitch three is fine. You can sling the chockstone at the crux, and get a cam in on the left face of the corner a little higher up. It is a little run out in other places on the climb, though.

Also, I was told that someone died on this climb a few years ago. Does anyone have information on that? May 19, 2008
GMBurns
  5.7 PG13
GMBurns  
  5.7 PG13
Just stay out of the thin chimney on the right of the corner if you want to keep it at the grade. Gulp! Aug 12, 2008
Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
I think this was the scene of the first fatality in the Gunks in 1959. The old red Dick Williams guide mentioned it, and caused me to avoid this route for about 20 years. Bummer, cause the corner is super fun. May 18, 2009
I have a question about the second pitch, if you start up from the tree with the slings on it (presumably that's the belay station for the first pitch), and climb up, there's, at least now, a cam stuck up there, where a right-facing corner turns into a small roof. I climbed up to the cam, but the move higher than that did not feel like a 5.3 (which one book said) nor a 5.5. I assumed that the direct way up is the 'Hi Coroner!'. So I traversed to the right a little, and hanging on to a few crimper holds and a few somewhat persistent ledges I moved up over a small overhang after about 7-10 feet of this. This was easier than straight up, but still did not feel like a 5.5. My question is: Is the route sandbagged, just right (and I'm just a wuss), or was I off-route (for High Corner, anyways)? Also, I wound up coming up directly below the third pitch beginning, but I did traverse right somewhat on a foot-wide ledge. Jul 14, 2010
k321, that cam is on P2 of Grim-Ace Face (just before the hard moves). Your traverse rightwards put you on High Coroner, 5.5ish but rather airy bit of climbing. IMO this is a better way to get to the GTL and P3 of High Corner than the wandering/rope draggy usual P2. Aug 5, 2010
Gini Kramer
North Haven, CT
Gini Kramer   North Haven, CT
I'd been looking at this route for a while and finally tried it yesterday. However, because of my aversion to ground falls, I immediately backed off the start, which is a kind of alcove/corner/crack/chimney/whatever that leads to a ledge with a large triee. So my partner and I went looking for another way to access the ledge. We found one about 15-20 feet to the right. A nice seam goes up and to the left. You can practically walk right up it. Which is what I did. I then walked to the big tree, set up the belay and brought my partner up.

P1 is, as described above, virtually unprotectable. But it's very easy climbing.
P2 is 5.fun. There are two places to set up a belay. One is by a rap tree. The other is up and to the left at the start of the right-facing corner you're going to follow. I recommend belaying there. That's because, toward the end of the pitch, there's a traverse to the right that takes you to the GT ledge. If you're beying belayed from the tree, your rope will form a giant C and you'll end up with epic rope drag.
P3 is considered the "money" pitch. It's harder than P2, but not nearly as much fun. Jun 17, 2014
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
5.5
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
5.5
I lead just the first pitch yesterday, and I did not find it run-out at all, certainly did not find protection "nearly nonexistent". I used 3 tricams (2 pink and a red), a nut, and some medium sized cams. PG at worst. I do think the crux is harder than 5.3. 5.4 or even 5.5 is more fair.

I really didn't like the hanging belay under the rap tree at the top of the pitch. I tried to build a gear anchor on the ledge above the tree to avoid the discomfort of a hanging belay, but I didn't like the options for gear placement, most of which involved a detached (I think) boulder, and would put the anchor on the ground.. If you really had to, or were willing to trust the detached boulder, you could manage to build an anchor, but it would be awkward at best.

If I do this again, I would either try to combine the first pitch with part of the second to find a better place to belay (up and to the left as Gini mentioned above), or maybe find a spot a couple moves below the rap tree to belay from. The Topo picture on the Trapps App shows a belay where Gini describes, roughly 20' above and 30' to the left of the rap tree. Pitch 2 goes to the right and up from this location. May 18, 2015
Eric Lutz  
 
Re-climbed this guy today for the first time since 2002. I forgot how good the 3rd pitch is! Sling the chock stone before the crux and GO! Pitch 1 and 2 are just Meh. I linked the first two with a 70m ending at the GT Ledge right below Shockley's. Sling the tree at the beginning. Nov 16, 2015
David Kerkeslager
New Paltz, NY
  5.6 PG13
David Kerkeslager   New Paltz, NY
  5.6 PG13
This was a scary morning. I started up Grim-Ace Face due to bad beta from a nearby climber, and (thankfully) backed down before any disaster. Then after consulting the Gunks App (which says nothing about the safety of the route) I started up High Corner. Definitely not adequate pro. Would not lead until you're more comfortable with the grade than I was. Sep 11, 2017

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