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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: 1980s
Page Views: 2,690 total · 19/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 27, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

A route squeezed next to the multi-pitch Ribs, this route is only one pitch long. You can do a contrived second pitch to reach Arch / Wrist, but you'll only get two pieces of pro - definitely X. As it stands, Ribless is a good route to set up on TR. Be warned, thought - Ribless and Ribs are in a rappelling superhighway. Wear a helmet at all times.

Location

Climb the face and arete to the left of Ribs, staying withing 2-3 feet of the arete at all times. Can use an anchor off Ribs with a directional to TR Ribless. Rappel down Ribs via bolted stations.

Protection

G-PG rated, depending on what gear you have. Tricams are useful.

Photos

SethG  
This was better than I expected. Good rock, a few interesting moves. The arete is far enough to the left of the rap line that you can lead it without concern that a rope will fall on your head. Also I found two good cracks at the top of the pitch for a gear anchor directly above the climb and out of the rap line. May 2, 2011
A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
  5.6 PG13
A.wilk Wilk   Olympia, WA
  5.6 PG13
This is a surprisingly fun short climb to do if you are in the area. I thought the gear got a little tricky about halfway up where there are two shallow, pebbly pockets. Mar 21, 2014
Dan Katz
New York, NY
 
Dan Katz   New York, NY
 
Really enjoyed this one. Gear did get a bit tricky around the two pockets - I threw a black tricam into one of the pockets, which wasn't my favorite placement, but seemed good enough for what I needed from it. Jan 22, 2017
I got a brown Tricam in the pebbly pocket in the midst of what would otherwise be the (slightly) runout bit before you get the nice horizontal that protects the crux move. Jul 21, 2018

More About Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs)

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