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Simple Ceilings

5.5, Trad, 290 ft (88 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 1.7 from 28 votes
FA: Willie Crowther and Gardiner Perry the III, 1957
New York > Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - The Cei…

Description

Start: At a short, blocky, right-facing corner with a protruding block about 15 feet up. This is the same start as Three Pines.

P1: Climb the short corner to a brushy ledge with a tree. Move up and left following a short corner and face passing a ledge to another ledge and belay below right-facing flakes. 5.2

P2: Climb the flakes up to a small grassy ledge and continue up and left past another ledge to the GT Ledge. 5.3

Traverse left on the GT Ledge to the second of 3 jutting pine trees. The next pitch starts at the low overhang about 15 feet right of a belay/rap station (Midnight Cowboy)

P3: Make a few moves past the low overhang and move right to small corner and another overhang (crux), above which is a small ledge. Climb fun moves up the face past a piton (another crux), aiming for the obvious block that teeters out over the face. Belay on the nice ledge under the roof above. 5.5

P4: Move up and left past the roof/corner aiming for a second pin above a slab under another big roof. Make the thin traverse left and exit up easier rock to the top. 5.5 (The Williams guidebook has this pitch at 5.3 but I thought the traverse was the crux of the route. It's possible I missed something though.)

Descent: From the top of the climb it is possible to follow a faint(at first) herd path right to the bolted rappels of Three Pines.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] P1 and 2 were fun but we could not find any pro on P3 off the GT so we bailed. Anyone know how?

Revised: Thanks John2.71! The trick is to relocate the belay pretty far left just as the description says (Doh!). It's much easier to approach the notch in the ceiling from the left as the beta says rather than from the right (Doh! again).

Also, it's very hard to hear/see your seconds on P3. Aug 1, 2013
[Hide Comment] A fantastic 5.5 with an unforgettable finish.

Kurtz - the first few moves off the GT Ledge are unprotected. The start of P3 isn't obvious. P2 ends by traversing left on the GT ledge to the second of three pine trees. The 2nd tree is gnarled growing horizontally at your feet. The 3rd tree is a large rap station, 15 ft to the left. P2 starts immediately right of the second pine tree. There's a ceiling above with an obvious exit about 5 ft to the right. One burly move will get you off the GT Ledge, then angle right to the exit point of the ceiling. Sep 19, 2014
Don Eiver
Westchester County, NY
 
[Hide Comment] Indeed a neglected route. P1 is a forgettable blocky scramble, P2 is dirty face climbing with lichen, P3 is the money pitch, and P4 is also dirty and overgrown with some slabby traverses. Watch out for rope drag on P4 and bring some long runners. Regardless, a fun climb and worth doing when other nearby classics are crowded. Aug 26, 2019
Chad Silva
Napanoch, NY
 
[Hide Comment] Great fun! Beyond P2 isn't for the 5.5 leader, but it's very worthy.

P1 and P2 link easily. P3 and P4 can link, but gets a bit draggy depending on where you belay. Mar 21, 2022