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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Glen Cilley 10/90
Page Views: 1,180 total, 13/month
Shared By: Annaconda on Jun 10, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A short, fun climb that will toughen your callouses ... Scramble up the slab to the first bolt, then climb the steeper wall above on sharp crimps.

Location

Uphill to the right of main New Wave wall, the middle bolt line on the low-angled buttress.

Protection

5 bolts to LO. Bring runners as the anchor is a bit back from the edge.

Photos

Ming
  5.9
Ming  
  5.9
Quick route description - scramble up to the first bolt (4th class). Easy 5.6 ish climbing to the 2nd bolt. Cut up to the left now and there is one good jug above the 3rd bolt which will be your only respite from the crimpers. Slowly work up the edges for the next 2 bolts and a pull over a ledge to finish. Decent intro 5.9 for people just getting into 5.9 climbing. Oct 9, 2012