Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Mark Sprague 11/98
Page Views: 4,198 total · 27/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A fun and somewhat varied route. There is a boulder problem crux and a pump crux. The rock is interesting with quartz deposits making for some cool moves.

Climb the first moderate boulder problem off the ground to a nice rest before the crux bulge (its only 10 feet up but I never refuse a rest when offered one). Head up and left on jugs till they run out, clip a bolts and head up in to the business. Most people favor a sneaky undercling to gain a good right hand to get situated on the steeps. A few more powerful moves get you to a mid way ledge. Milk the rest and work your way up the corner above laying back and making some sequency moves to gain the slightly sloping lip (this might be tough if you are pumped). Find the good holds and clip the chains. Topping out is fun and sometimes easier than hanging to clip.

This might be a good 5.12 to do as your first if it fits your style. Its not hard in the grade but definitely 5.12.
youtube.com/watch?v=qKLxhsm…

Location

Middle left end of the cliff just right of the corner of barking spiders (5.11c)

Protection

8 bolts to chains with fixed lower biners...

Photos