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Weevil Knievil
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 142
votes
Routes in New Wave
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Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cold Wave S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Retrospade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Today Morning S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Weevil Knievil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Mark Sprague 11/98 |
| Page Views: | 5,926 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Sep 19, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A fun and somewhat varied route. There is a boulder problem crux and a pump crux. The rock is interesting with quartz deposits making for some cool moves.
Climb the first moderate boulder problem off the ground to a nice rest before the crux bulge (its only 10 feet up but I never refuse a rest when offered one). Head up and left on jugs till they run out, clip a bolts and head up in to the business. Most people favor a sneaky undercling to gain a good right hand to get situated on the steeps. A few more powerful moves get you to a mid way ledge. Milk the rest and work your way up the corner above laying back and making some sequency moves to gain the slightly sloping lip (this might be tough if you are pumped). Find the good holds and clip the chains. Topping out is fun and sometimes easier than hanging to clip.
This might be a good 5.12 to do as your first if it fits your style. Its not hard in the grade but definitely 5.12.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKLxhsm5-U0
Climb the first moderate boulder problem off the ground to a nice rest before the crux bulge (its only 10 feet up but I never refuse a rest when offered one). Head up and left on jugs till they run out, clip a bolts and head up in to the business. Most people favor a sneaky undercling to gain a good right hand to get situated on the steeps. A few more powerful moves get you to a mid way ledge. Milk the rest and work your way up the corner above laying back and making some sequency moves to gain the slightly sloping lip (this might be tough if you are pumped). Find the good holds and clip the chains. Topping out is fun and sometimes easier than hanging to clip.
This might be a good 5.12 to do as your first if it fits your style. Its not hard in the grade but definitely 5.12.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKLxhsm5-U0
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