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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bradley White and Bill Hardigan, 1986
Page Views: 789 total · 7/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 2, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details


Original start was dirty crack on the far right side to reach the horizontal traverse towards Smokestack. Before Smokestack climb the face right of a diagonal crack (long vintage soft angle pin) and stopper placements that splits the wall. Continue up ramp that terminates at cracks.
That ended our first day creating this route. It had too much rope drag! Came back and set up a rappel to bolt the bottom face. Now Sam's had a direct start to the horizontal crack and a pin was added near the top of the cliff. Bill and I returned and the crux went fine but I screwed up the sequence at the pin and fell before clipping it. Huge air drop. I had the bolt kit on me and placed a bolt below the last pin on the lead before I finished the climb. Retrospade has chalk on the same face holds as 'Sam Spade' does. They look like Siamese Twins. Maybe Sam Spade went into obscurity with it's gag, vintage pin relic. The pin was fine.
Today that's the only thing left on this route that's original are the bolts and pins because of Tom's declaration that 'Retrospade' is a separated from 'Sam Spade' climb from ours.


Right of Smokestack


Vintage pin, bolts and mostly stoppers


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