Mountain Project Logo

Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Bradley White, Andy Byerly 10/86
Page Views: 629 total, 5/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 3, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


81 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This former trad climb has a crack on it but doesn't climb like one for the most part... Crack technique will help but mostly interesting face climbing on cool rock with the occasional jam or fingerlock...

To the right of Sally's Alley (5.11c) follow bolts along the crack to the left of an arete, move right at the top (a long draw on the bolt to the right of the arete will help with rope drag)...

I found this one felt pretty hard but i've only been on it once...

Location

Right of the corner on Sally's Alley and left of the arete of Valley Daze (5.11d)...

Protection

6 bolts... anchors... long draw on last bolt helps...
Sleyer
 
Sleyer  
 
What a great climb! Really thoughtful hand sequence and footwork. And the hidden Jesus bucket is much appreciated. Jul 31, 2017
S. Neoh
5.10a/b
S. Neoh  
5.10a/b
Nick, you are right; there aren't a lot of buckets on this climb. I like the route and it is a great way to set TR up for the really good Vallee Daze. Aug 26, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10b
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10b
Gee . . . I guess I missed the secret hold(s) for sure! I found this one hard at the grade. I was constantly groping awkwardly above my head for the 5.10a buckets that I couldn't find. The bolts are also a bit far apart which adds to the experience. Aug 25, 2014
S. Neoh
5.10a/b
S. Neoh  
5.10a/b
Nice climb; very hard without the 'secret' hold which may not be so easily visible to shorties like me. I give it 2.5 stars.
May appear runout by Rumney standards but it really is not. :) Aug 19, 2010
Annaconda
Seattle, WA
  5.10b
Annaconda   Seattle, WA
  5.10b
A really fun route! The 6th bolt is actually on Vallee Daze - you get a stance below the roof/crack at the top and reach around the arete to the right to clip it. Then you can step around the arete and head for the anchors, a little runout but on easy ground. Alternatively, bring a couple bigger cams to protect the top in the crack. Jun 10, 2010
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
It's original name was Black Sambo and not racist's. It was named after a chain of restaurants called Sambo's, and in the 1980's (because of racial implied profiling) Sambo's changed their name. It was the beginning of the newest image to Americanism. This Americanism spread to Rattlesnake. Climbers started calling Black Sambo, Black Dog Crack that title sounds racist to me. The first ascent of this climb was done with Andy Byerly.
All of the Sam names were related to an old dog I adopted named Sammy. She could climb low angle rock walls because her nails were so long. She could even climb some 1+ ice and snow walls. Her ice climbing would make me nervous. Aug 2, 2009
BTodd
 
BTodd  
 
I really liked this climb, especially the wild top section May 26, 2008
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
An interesting route that is also a good warm up and way to get to the anchors if you wish to work Dark Star on TR.

For those perturbed by the retrobolting of a route called Black Dog Crack, the bolts replace the same number of fixed pins. Aug 15, 2007