Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1986
Page Views: 1,917 total · 10/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Note - 90% sport, but you do need gear for the horizontal down low.

Classic blunt arete climbing that is unrelenting and not so straight forward.

Climb just to the left the rounded arete shared with the start of Ten of Spades. Balance your way up the vertical face using incuts and some high-stepping magic to gain the diagonal crack.

At this point place that #1 Camalot you toted along with you in the crack, and make some tenuous moves back up and right to gain the next series of crimps protected by several more bolts to the top where the angle lessens and the climbing becomes noticeably easier.

Location Suggest change

On the right side of the cliff is the route Ten of Spades. This route climbs just to the left on the face.

Protection Suggest change

5 or 6 bolts and a #1 or 2 Camalot or a larger nut. chain anchors.