Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1986
Page Views: 482 total · 4/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details


Note - 90% sport, but you do need gear for the horizontal down low.

Classic blunt arete climbing that is unrelenting and not so straight forward.

Climb just to the left the rounded arete shared with the start of Ten of Spades. Balance your way up the vertical face using incuts and some high-stepping magic to gain the diagonal crack.

At this point place that #1 Camalot you toted along with you in the crack, and make some tenuous moves back up and right to gain the next series of crimps protected by several more bolts to the top where the angle lessens and the climbing becomes noticeably easier.


On the right side of the cliff is the route Ten of Spades. This route climbs jsut to the left on the face.


5 or 6 bolts and a #1 Camalo or larger nut. chain anchors.


- No Photos -
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
There has been a fixed nut in the crack for a long time now so you don't have to bring the #1 mentioned in the description... Nov 11, 2009
Andrew Mertens
Fort Collins
Andrew Mertens   Fort Collins
The nut's gone so bring the cam. May 3, 2013
S. Neoh  
The FA'ist was told today that the nut is no longer there. May 4, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
I wonder if Retrospade will ever get a bolt near the horizontal crack? Sep 20, 2015
S. Neoh  
I checked with the FA'ist of RS three or four years ago and the answer was "no". In the past, there was occasionally a "fixed nut" in the crack. Can't say I have seen that lately tho. Sep 20, 2015
damon farnum   MA
Great climb. Found the onsight tough but once the sequence was figured out it's not too bad. #2 camelot is bomber in that crack, no bolt needed Oct 6, 2015
Nicola Angeli
New York, NY
Nicola Angeli   New York, NY
I did without the camelot, so scary the third clip
Remember the camelot!!!!!!!!!!! Oct 8, 2018