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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1986
Page Views: 307 total, 3/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Nov 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Classic blunt arete climbing that is unrelenting and not so straight forward.

Climb just to the left the rounded arete shared with the start of Ten of Spades. balance your way up the vertical face using incuts and some high-stepping magic to gain the diagonal crack.

At this point place that #1 Camalot you toted along with you in the crack, and make some tenuous moves back up and right to gain the next series of crimps protected by several more bolts to the top where the angle lessens and the climbing becomes noticably easier.

Location

On the right side of the cliff is the route Ten of Spades. This route climbs jsut to the left on the face.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts and a #1 Camalot. chain anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
nomadian   MA
Great climb. Found the onsight tough but once the sequence was figured out it's not too bad. #2 camelot is bomber in that crack, no bolt needed Oct 6, 2015
S. Neoh  
I checked with the FA'ist of RS three or four years ago and the answer was "no". In the past, there was occasionally a "fixed nut" in the crack. Can't say I have seen that lately tho. Sep 20, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
I wonder if Retrospade will ever get a bolt near the horizontal crack? Sep 20, 2015
S. Neoh  
The FA'ist was told today that the nut is no longer there. May 4, 2013
Andrew Mertens
Berkeley, CA
  5.11c/d
Andrew Mertens   Berkeley, CA
  5.11c/d
The nut's gone so bring the cam. May 3, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
There has been a fixed nut in the crack for a long time now so you don't have to bring the #1 mentioned in the description... Nov 11, 2009