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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Ward Smith, 1999
Page Views: 3,032 total · 26/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Jun 21, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


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Description

Roaring Silence is a fun route up the left side of New Wave Wall. It starts with the first few bolts of Weevil and breaks right up the steepest part of the wall. The first crux consists of weird moves through black rock. The second crux comes up high on the steep arete. Many skip the last bolt as the climbing is pretty intense at this point.

The cruxes on Roaring Silence are separated by a nice, hands-off rest, keeping the grade on the lower end of 5.13. There has been some debate as to the true letter grade, but then again, sport climbers have to talk about something.

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lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
i really enjoy the style of this climb! its steep but very much technical... for me it was way more about figuring out my beta than fighting the pump or just being strong (which is my weak spot, haha)... so try it... if you like that sort of thing...

oh and to add to the above discussion... i exit the corner and stay to the left until moving back right in to the cruxy business... i do it differently than either one on the video... Aug 18, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I went way left to rest, and I think most people do as well. Despite the looks from the ground, this route isn't that sustained--it's more like two boulder problems. Even with the rest, it's a great route. Jun 30, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I think I did it that way. It has been a while, but I remember going further left than most, then coming back. I got it second time on top rope that way, but one of the clips would have been out of reach for me without a really long sling, so I never lead it. It's funny, I got back on it more recently and got completely spanked. I couldn't even get through the bottom crux. It made me feel wicked old and decrepit, like an old dog trying to follow the pack with it's legs giving out and looking back at the pack of hyenas following. You need to be in bouldering shape for this one. Jun 19, 2011
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Youtube yanked the video. Found it here though :) dailymotion.com/video/x91hk…

Was interesting to Mike and Frank climb out of the upper corner to the left, then come back in near the top of it. Is that how most do that section? Jun 19, 2011
stow  
1st, 2nd, 5th and 6th old fixed draws replaced by black-tubed Climb Tech permadraws on May 12, 2011. 5th clip an inch longer so should be slightly easier, and the runout to the chains maybe slightly less freaky without the nagging wondering about actual tensile strength of very old sun-bleached draws with grooved biners May 15, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
I saw Mike Korak working this one day, what a beautiful route I hope to be able to climb this hard some day Aug 10, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
Check out this video i came across with footage of Mike Korak and a dude i dont know...

youtube.com/watch?v=j2GxNc7… Apr 24, 2009

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