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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jim Shimberg
Page Views: 308 total, 3/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Nov 13, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This route is fun with good holds everywhere except at the crux. Start on the easy slab under the first bolt work your way up clipping off of a good undercling. Trend right up easy ground past another bolt, then clip the third bolt, just above a ledge, this is where the crux begins. Move left on underclings these moves can feel extremely compressed, there is a small foot on the face that is usable. Continue moving left on the ledge in funky compressed moves until it is possible to stand up and clip the next bolt, continue over the bulge with one or two more thought provoking moves. Then continue up the easy often wet top to the chains.

The new guide book has this listed at 5.7 but Jim told me it was 5.9 before the book came out so I have adjusted it to meet in the middle.

Location

On the New Wave wall, on the smaller section to the right, this is the right most bolted route, just left of the dirty gully that makes the trad route of Schist Another Crack.

To access this part of the cliff when you get to New Wave proper and the trail splits, left goes to New Wave go right as if heading to the Kennel Wall there will be three bolted routes here on the left of the trail, this route is the right most route.

Protection

4 bolts to LO's.

PLEASE TOP ROPE OFF YOUR OWN GEAR.

Photos

Meredith Englund  
  5.9+
Not the 5.8 I was expecting! Jumped on this as a warm up climb and found it awkward and slightly frustrating at the crux. Had to hang for a few at the crux to figure out a way up (mostly because I got a bit scared not knowing what to grab), and even when I got through it I didn't feel like I did it elegantly or correctly. I was the only one who lead it of my group and I'm 5'7" - my friends TR'ed it without much difficulty, and they are all taller. The tallest amongst us loved it. I found the 5.9 and 5.8+ to the left of this one far easier.

If you're not very tall and looking for a juggy or fun climb to warm up on, grab one of the climbs to the left of this route. Sep 25, 2017
S. Neoh
5.9-
S. Neoh  
5.9-
The Daytripper is a far better warmup/warmdown climb.
Agreed; not 5.7. Nov 11, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10a
Absolutely no way that this route is a 5.7. We were heading up to the Kennel Wall, and we hopped on this route as a warm-up. Well, surprise, surprise! If you follow the bolt-line, as I did, there is a gnarly, balancey 5.10 move to get up onto the blank face of rock that juts out. You have to undercling the bottom and then reach up to this nasty, slopey shelf. Footholds are minimal. Maybe you could traverse left into the shallow corner where the rock is stained white, but that would seem a contrived way to do this line to me. Look out for this one . . . Nov 10, 2013
Gini Kramer
North Haven, CT
Gini Kramer   North Haven, CT
A fun route, but definitely not 5.7. Aug 5, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
Yeah, we got on this expecting a quick cool down on the way back down to the parking lot from the Kennell wall. We definitely weren't expecting the thought provoking awkward crux! Still a fun climb, would be interested to get on it again knowing what to expect. Feb 4, 2013
Ming
  5.9
Ming  
  5.9
Can we say not even close to a 5.7? I don't think it's a 5.7 even if you are 6+ feet tall. I put my wife up on it because it's suppose to be a "5.7" and I watch her struggle on the crux move while she had little trouble on the 5.9 next to it. She is 5 ft 2 in. I got on it and being 5ft 2in w/-3 ape index and I had to use my power to pull onto the non-bucket ledge. I saw the easier holds to my left that would've dropped the move dow to 5.9 ish but I did a 10ish thuggish move that is upper body strength dependent. Btw she did get the onsight on that one and I was so proud of her and I consider it to be the hardest send she has done yet. Oct 8, 2012
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
So that is what this is called haha.. was my first lead ever in 03. Aug 31, 2011
Alyson Sewell
Plymouth, NH
  5.9
Alyson Sewell   Plymouth, NH
  5.9
This climb is a lot of fun, but it's pretty short.

Also, I feel the ratings are different depending on how you do this climb. 2 out of 3 of us did it with this weird but really fun scrunched under-cling traverse (definitely a ton harder!) at the crux. When Matt did it, he just stood on small feet and reached for something. I'm not sure how easy this would be for someone my height. Nonetheless it is a great climb either way, definitely recommended! Nov 23, 2009