Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Jim Shimberg
Page Views: 851 total · 6/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Nov 13, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This route is fun with good holds everywhere except at the crux. Start on the easy slab under the first bolt work your way up clipping off of a good undercling. Trend right up easy ground past another bolt, then clip the third bolt, just above a ledge, this is where the crux begins. Move left on underclings these moves can feel extremely compressed, there is a small foot on the face that is usable. Continue moving left on the ledge in funky compressed moves until it is possible to stand up and clip the next bolt, continue over the bulge with one or two more thought provoking moves. Then continue up the easy often wet top to the chains.

The new guide book has this listed at 5.7 but Jim told me it was 5.9 before the book came out so I have adjusted it to meet in the middle.

Location

On the New Wave wall, on the smaller section to the right, this is the right most bolted route, just left of the dirty gully that makes the trad route of Schist Another Crack.

To access this part of the cliff when you get to New Wave proper and the trail splits, left goes to New Wave go right as if heading to the Kennel Wall there will be three bolted routes here on the left of the trail, this route is the right most route.

Protection

4 bolts to LO's.

PLEASE TOP ROPE OFF YOUR OWN GEAR.

Photos