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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Tom Armstrong
Page Views: 4,420 total, 39/month
Shared By: Ladd on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

This climb is wonderful. It is very aesthetic line, has extremely safe falls that still provide fear and it'll make for some frameable pictures. Make sure you bring your bag of tricks as you will encounter crimps, deadpoints, heelhooks, sidepulls, barndoors, pinches, fingerlocks, and a kneebar if you are observant. Balance, a couple of interesting rests and footwork will be rewarded.

Start out on easy ground, make the first clip and then get ready for the next 50 feet of business. Grab an undercling, make the move out onto the right face using crimps and make your first desperate move to the first jug of the climb at 25 feet. Make a big move up to another jug and set up for the crux, a series of crimps leading to the redpoint crux, clipping the 5th bolt off the flat ledge. Use your rest finding skills to find a left knee bar on the ledge and regroup before the final 5.10 layback moves up to the anchor.

This remarkable line is a must do for climbers 5'10" and over.

Location

Striking black arete is the center of the wall to the right of Black Dog Crack and Salley's Alley.

Protection

7 bolts of Anchors

Newly rebolted!
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a
A bit of butt-shot footage of me taking a lap on Vallee-D. A really great climb!
youtube.com/watch?v=inA-LN5… Sep 4, 2016
Lance Galletti
  5.12a
Lance Galletti  
  5.12a
Little video of the crux. Enjoy!
youtube.com/watch?v=mQZPFxq… Oct 16, 2015
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
I got on this today on TR. Very nice route. Knowing Tom, I am not at all surprised he graded it .11d. On TR, it felt .11d/.12a to me. I am nowhere nearly as tall as 5'10" and only found two longish moves. My partner at 5'0 (but with exquisite footwork) did not so much had to pop for a hold. And, yeah, she sent. Impressive. May 6, 2012
Andrew Freeman
Brookline, MA
  5.12a
Andrew Freeman   Brookline, MA
  5.12a
I have to say, I definitely found this a little heady. Falling around the corner seemed like it might be harsh for your rope May 24, 2009
Definitely, I did this today right after Weevil Knevil and felt this was the harder of the two lines. May 20, 2009
Emile Mennin
Plymouth, NH
Emile Mennin   Plymouth, NH
Great Route, the day I sent it I was belayed by the man who put it on the map! And yes, I agree with the 12a rating. It is harder then Peanut Man, even though I sent Vallee Daze before I sent Peanut Man. Apr 6, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.12a
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.12a
Given the position and the moves, I like to think that this is the Latest Rage of Rumney. Jul 6, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a
cool.. well im psyched to get on it some time... Jul 4, 2008
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
It is harder than Social Outcast, Peanut Man, and both 12s at Jimmy Cliff.

It is definitely 12a. Jul 3, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12a
nice description ladd it makes me want to run out and climb it today!

so i know its rated 5.11d in the guide and i heard it was stiff so is 5.12a the current consensus or just your vote? im fully aware that it doesnt matter, just wondering... Jul 3, 2008