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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith 11/98
Page Views: 2,117 total, 16/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 29, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


113 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Looking up you wouldn't know what a cool climb this is.... I also couldn't judge how challenging it would be.... From the bottom, it looked like a steep slab, but once on it, it seemed vertical with super-techy climbing (which I always enjoy)...Basically having to adjust and readjust my foot work for every hand move on the second half of the route...A great test of mid-grade technical 5.10 climbing....

The start is no harder than 5.8, lulling you in to a false sense of security.... You then hit the upper headwall where things get steeper and more challenging.... This section involves tiny crimps, sidepulls, underclings, and even slopers...even clipping the chains presents a challenge cause the hard climbing won't let up once it starts....

Location

2nd route right of the obvious black chimney of Smokestack (5.9), starting under a tree growing out of the cliff 10 feet up....

Protection

7 bolts to quick clips....

Photos

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S. Neoh
5.10c
S. Neoh  
5.10c
Solid at the grade, as one would expect of Smitty routes. No small crimps or slopers for hands for me though. Ladybugs were swarming the top 1/3 of the climb today (possibly expected in the Fall). Clipping the anchors was not trivial with not-so-great feet. 2.5 stars from me. Oct 14, 2017
Really good description, Lee. This climb is superb. Very aesthetic on high-quality stone. I like the sandstone analogy. Also felt like the Gunks for some reason (position I guess). Jul 20, 2017
Ian Grant
Cambridge
 
Ian Grant   Cambridge
 
One of my favorites. Tensiony climbing. Don't be discouraged if the bottom is dripping. May 1, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10d
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10d
Superb, delicate mid-range climbing up the Ten of Spades arete! How would this be for the all-time greatest New England hypothetical 5.10 sport climb/face climb: Climb Ten of Spades which would lead into the Lonesome Dove arete which would finish up the Skunks in the Gym face. Ahhh . . . 5.10 heaven. Aug 14, 2014
Adam Conroy
Cambridge, MA
 
Adam Conroy   Cambridge, MA
 
Really great description of the route, Lee. This is one of my favorite climbs and everyone who wants an interesting, varied, 10 to climb should get on it. One note: the lower section has some dishes that can hold water for a long time so just watch out for that as you're making the 5.8 scramble to the slabby area. May 7, 2012