Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith 11/98
Page Views: 2,832 total · 18/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 29, 2007 with improvements by Hhh H
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


150 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Looking up you wouldn't know what a cool climb this is.... I also couldn't judge how challenging it would be.... From the bottom, it looked like a steep slab, but once on it, it seemed vertical with super-techy climbing (which I always enjoy)...Basically having to adjust and readjust my foot work for every hand move on the second half of the route...A great test of mid-grade technical 5.10 climbing....

The start is no harder than 5.8, lulling you in to a false sense of security.... You then hit the upper headwall where things get steeper and more challenging.... This section involves tiny crimps, sidepulls, underclings, and even slopers...even clipping the chains presents a challenge cause the hard climbing won't let up once it starts....

Location

2nd route right of the obvious black chimney of Smokestack (5.9), starting under a tree growing out of the cliff 10 feet up....

Protection

7 bolts to quick clips....

Photos