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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Keith Beccansoll 8/06
Page Views: 1,096 total · 11/month
Shared By: Annaconda on Jun 10, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A nice warm-up and not as sharp as its neighbor. Up a pine-needle covered slab to start, follow the bolts past an overlap (crux) to the top.

Location [Suggest Change]

Left line on the low-angle buttress up and right of the main New Wave wall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts to LO

Photos

Ming
  5.8+
Ming  
  5.8+
Climbs much better than it looks. Start up easy mossy slab (5.4) for 4 bolts. Some gardening maybe be needed. Get to the overlap where the business begins. Clip the bolt protect the move pulling over the overlap and down climb a little bit into the corner of the overlap. Good hold and fancy footwork will get you over and a high left foot will get you stabilized again. A few more stemming moves and you'll be at the chains. Don't discount this route - it's more fun than it looks. Oct 8, 2012
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
I concur with the sentiment that this one climbs better than it looks. Worth at least two stars and one go at it, if you can look beyond the unattractive start. Oct 8, 2012

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