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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ed Esmond, 1998
Page Views: 3,396 total, 26/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Air and Pleasant Danger climbs a pronounced arête on the left side of the New Wave. While the actual climbing isn’t the best at Rumney, the route’s position is great and makes the climb very worthwhile. From the belay bolt at the base of the route (a slip from here could land you 35 feet down Below the New Wall), climb the slab past two bolts and gain the arête. Step left and continue up huge holds past five bolts to the top. If it’s been raining at Rumney (and things have yet to dry out), the upper part of the route will probable by wet (even if the base is dry).

Location

Located on the extreme left side of the New Wave (marks the boundary between New Wave and Orange Crush walls). Follow the trail along the bottom of the wall to the end and look for a single belay bolt below the face. Only the first two bolts of the route are visible from bottom.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.

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