Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Justin Hayes
Page Views: 3,021 total · 25/month
Shared By: Andrew Palmer on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Fun climbing on small, small holds. Some interesting and low percentage moves lead to the traverse at the top of Dark Star into Paradox.

Although the climb is routinely published with the 5.14a grade, many have suggested that 5.13d may be more appropriate.

Location

Located on the far right side of New Wave Wall, on the black face - it's the climb directly in front of you as you arrive at New Wave.

Strict Scrutiny follows Dark Star and then heads right into the crux of Paradox.

Protection

8 fixed draws to the anchors.

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.13d
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.13d
This is a great route, and in my opinion it is at least one letter grade harder than Dark Star. I've been able to link up to the top of Dark Star on many occasions, but continuing on the the higher anchors has been a battle.

So, I'd say if you give Dark Star 13c, the SS should be 13d. If you give Dark Star 13d, the SS is 14a, etc. But whatever, Strict Scrutiny is a cool route that actually climbs like an endurancy sport route, unlike many of Rumney's boulder problems. Dec 21, 2008
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
Some add'l beta:

Traverse into SS after 7th draw on DS (from the good rest jug). To do so prior, would probably merit 14a. Sep 27, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i changed the grade on this since it is pretty well agreed on these days that it's just shy of 5.14... Jan 30, 2013
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.13d
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.13d
I probably agree with 13d, but ten people have recorded an ascent of Strict Scrutiny on 8a.nu, and all have given it 14a. Jun 27, 2013
Brian Nugent  
 
vimeo.com/72390550 Aug 14, 2013
I've only been on this once. Great climbing but it seemed soft even at 13d. Surprised that so many people call it 14a. Aug 26, 2013
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.13d
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.13d
I think the grade discrepancy might say more about 8a.nu than it does about the route itself. :) Aug 26, 2013
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
  5.13d
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
  5.13d
I heard that a foothold at the top rest broke recently making the grade a little more stiff. However, having just sent it, I'd say for sure it's still 13d. There is a key rest just right of the 2nd to last bolt, with good right hand crimp and a "thumb up" sloper pinch for the left (this rest is bypassed in the above video). The top stand up rest at the last bolt where people used to camp out for several minutes no longer seems to be good for more than a shake or two. Oct 3, 2016