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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Justin Hayes
Page Views: 2,733 total, 25/month
Shared By: Andrew Palmer on Dec 19, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Fun climbing on small, small holds. Some interesting and low percentage moves lead to the traverse at the top of Dark Star into Paradox.

Although the climb is routinely published with the 5.14a grade, many have suggested that 5.13d may be more appropriate.

Location

Located on the far right side of New Wave Wall, on the black face - it's the climb directly in front of you as you arrive at New Wave.

Strict Scrutiny follows Dark Star and then heads right into the crux of Paradox.

Protection

8 fixed draws to the anchors.

Photos

Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.13d
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.13d
I heard that a foothold at the top rest broke recently making the grade a little more stiff. However, having just sent it, I'd say for sure it's still 13d. There is a key rest just right of the 2nd to last bolt, with good right hand crimp and a "thumb up" sloper pinch for the left (this rest is bypassed in the above video). The top stand up rest at the last bolt where people used to camp out for several minutes no longer seems to be good for more than a shake or two. Oct 3, 2016
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.13d
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.13d
I think the grade discrepancy might say more about 8a.nu than it does about the route itself. :) Aug 26, 2013
I've only been on this once. Great climbing but it seemed soft even at 13d. Surprised that so many people call it 14a. Aug 26, 2013
Brian Nugent  
 
vimeo.com/72390550 Aug 14, 2013
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.13d
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.13d
I probably agree with 13d, but ten people have recorded an ascent of Strict Scrutiny on 8a.nu, and all have given it 14a. Jun 27, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i changed the grade on this since it is pretty well agreed on these days that it's just shy of 5.14... Jan 30, 2013
chris deulen
Castle Rock
chris deulen   Castle Rock
Some add'l beta:

Traverse into SS after 7th draw on DS (from the good rest jug). To do so prior, would probably merit 14a. Sep 27, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.13d
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.13d
This is a great route, and in my opinion it is at least one letter grade harder than Dark Star. I've been able to link up to the top of Dark Star on many occasions, but continuing on the the higher anchors has been a battle.

So, I'd say if you give Dark Star 13c, the SS should be 13d. If you give Dark Star 13d, the SS is 14a, etc. But whatever, Strict Scrutiny is a cool route that actually climbs like an endurancy sport route, unlike many of Rumney's boulder problems. Dec 21, 2008