Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Justin Hayes & Ward Smith
Page Views: 2,754 total · 27/month
Shared By: Emile Mennin on Sep 23, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Be prepared to crimp and shred any skin you have. Beautiful face climbing on crimps, with little to no rests make this one of Rumney's most sustained sport routes. Power-endurance and skin are the key to sending.

Crimpy, sequential moves lead to a distinct crux, defined by sharp, painful crimps necessary to set up for the move out left (the crux). Stick this move, dead point up and right to one of the best crimps (and most fun moves on the route), clip and breathe, it isn't over. The remainder of the climb is delicate, pumpy and crimpy!

Location

Right side of New Wave. This route climbs the dark streak to the right of Vallee Daze and left of Paradox (both, routes worthy of attention).

Protection

bolts.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
  5.13c
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13c
This route is very easy to set up for working on TR or putting your draws on by climbing Black Dog Crack 10b to the left, so there really is no need for leaving fixed draws on this route, IMO. Black Dog makes a nice warm-up too.

This route is one of my favorites at Rumney due to it's technical nature. It is steeper than you might first think too! Jun 27, 2013