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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Justin Hayes & Ward Smith
Page Views: 2,270 total, 26/month
Shared By: Emile Mennin on Sep 23, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Note: New route moratorium area Details


Be prepared to crimp and shred any skin you have. Beautiful face climbing on crimps, with little to no rests make this one of Rumney's most sustained sport routes. Power-endurance and skin are the key to sending.

Crimpy, sequential moves lead to a distinct crux, defined by sharp, painful crimps necessary to set up for the move out left (the crux). Stick this move, dead point up and right to one of the best crimps (and most fun moves on the route), clip and breathe, it isn't over. The remainder of the climb is delicate, pumpy and crimpy!


Right side of New Wave. This route climbs the dark streak to the right of Vallee Daze and left of Paradox (both, routes worthy of attention).




M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
This route is very easy to set up for working on TR or putting your draws on by climbing Black Dog Crack 10b to the left, so there really is no need for leaving fixed draws on this route, IMO. Black Dog makes a nice warm-up too.

This route is one of my favorites at Rumney due to it's technical nature. It is steeper than you might first think too! Jun 27, 2013